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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2016 21:33:58 GMT
If its on the boiler side check no water is running down the condense pipe when boiler is idle if it is you have a crack in the heat exchanger.
How often does it need recharging battle ?
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Post by battle1066 on Dec 29, 2016 21:52:16 GMT
Firstly thank you for the prompt replys gents
I was told the fault started more or less at the beginning of December when they had a visitor and turned that radiator on from hibernation - Lost 1/2 bar each week since then.
I run out of time today but I'm of the mind set one of the radiators upstairs has an air issue and the EV is set wrong - I agree with the isolation valves it would prove its in the CH side of the job but the customer due to go away so it's a second visit but the date is to be agreed.
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Post by endfeed on Dec 29, 2016 22:23:19 GMT
A good tip is to isolate the heating via a couple of lever type valves on the heating flow and return then run it on hot water only. If the pressure then holds you can virtually say that the leak is somewhere on the CH pipework. However If the pressure still falls then it's something on the boiler. Hi tappy, can this be used on all combi boilers? Great tip mate!!  |
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Post by tomplum on Dec 29, 2016 22:26:34 GMT
ahhh, well i'd start my investigations around the circuit on the hibernated rad, turn it off again and see it it stops, We often see a bad joint in pipework thats there for years and never leaks, it might be an unsoldered joint or a badly soldered joint and when it gets a 'shock', it starts weeping,
or even a rad gland nut, it might be running down the pipe and under the floor undetected, but thats where I'd start looking,
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Post by endfeed on Dec 30, 2016 11:29:12 GMT
I had a weeping joint on "stab pipe" coming out of a suspended floor on the nut&olive to the tmv.it was weeping directly down the back of pipe not causing any wet patches , but making its way to suspended floor space..sneekey fooker water is at times!!!
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Post by crowsfoot on Dec 30, 2016 19:58:14 GMT
A good tip is to isolate the heating via a couple of lever type valves on the heating flow and return then run it on hot water only. If the pressure then holds you can virtually say that the leak is somewhere on the CH pipework. However If the pressure still falls then it's something on the boiler. Hi tappy, can this be used on all combi boilers? Great tip mate!! As far as I know it can. If you get a problem on the CH side you can switch it off at the valves and the customer can still use the combi for the hot water until you can get back at a future date to sort the CH out. |
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Post by crowsfoot on Dec 30, 2016 20:02:41 GMT
Firstly thank you for the prompt replys gents I was told the fault started more or less at the beginning of December when they had a visitor and turned that radiator on from hibernation - Lost 1/2 bar each week since then. I run out of time today but I'm of the mind set one of the radiators upstairs has an air issue and the EV is set wrong - I agree with the isolation valves it would prove its in the CH side of the job but the customer due to go away so it's a second visit but the date is to be agreed. It would seem to be something to do with the turning on of the radiator, so I'm with tom & EF. Although listening to customers can put you on the wrong path (in my experience). |
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Post by Bamber gaspipe on Dec 31, 2016 18:45:39 GMT
Firstly thank you for the prompt replys gents I was told the fault started more or less at the beginning of December when they had a visitor and turned that radiator on from hibernation - Lost 1/2 bar each week since then. I run out of time today but I'm of the mind set one of the radiators upstairs has an air issue and the EV is set wrong - I agree with the isolation valves it would prove its in the CH side of the job but the customer due to go away so it's a second visit but the date is to be agreed.
Although listening to customers can put you on the wrong path (in my experience).
Spot on with that me old china , never listen to what a custerd tells what they think is wrong because they aint got a fooking clue half the time , your always better doing your own investigation , check each thing in turn and tick it off the list and you will always find it in the end...........  |
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Post by tomplum on Dec 31, 2016 20:00:12 GMT
hello bamber gaspipe, are you any relation to the the clever twat on unervercity challange ?
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 4, 2017 21:03:32 GMT
This video is good, shite boiler but hey ho;
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Post by tomplum on Jan 4, 2017 22:12:20 GMT
yea looks interesting Dick, good find,, |
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 15, 2017 17:34:59 GMT
Some tools are indispensable for working on boilers, removing clips, holding things to reassemble componentsetc etc etc: I was advised to buy a set of & fuck knows how I managed without them; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221557911932 |
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Post by tomplum on Jan 15, 2017 17:52:55 GMT
30 years ago my fingers and eyes worked perfect, now i need glasses and my dexterity is poor, so i always keep a pair of long nosed pliers handy, But seeing your link Dick, I think i'll get a set of those, good post, as usual Dick, |
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 15, 2017 19:01:29 GMT
I just bought a cheap crappy set Tom, of course you can pay top dollar, but for a tight sweaty sock like me!!
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Post by tomplum on Jan 15, 2017 19:25:17 GMT
I've just ordered a pair of the 90 degree type, the tight twats put them up a quid, they're £5.99 now per pair, aw well, 6XqEngr88r5GlWolCJDi
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