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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2017 15:42:29 GMT
I am planning to remove my old bath & add a bath with a shower. It is a gravity fed system and the showerhead would be about 50cm from the base of the water tank, giving me 0.05 BAR I believe. I think it could be difficult to shower with that! It is the only bathroom and would be the only shower, might be nice to have body sprays but I expect that requires more pressure. Has anyone fitted a Nordstrand 90w booster pump? www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CO2WLJO/ref=asc_df_B01CO2WLJO44442432/?tag=lion0d29-21&creative=22374&creativeASIN=B01CO2WLJO&linkCode=df0This seems a cheap alternative to the 1.5+ bar pumps I have seen, but is it a waste of time & money? What do you guys think is the minimum BAR required for a good shower?
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Post by tomplum on Jul 22, 2017 15:50:07 GMT
Both myself and Plumberboy have bought these pumps and they work well for the money, I fitted one in my garden, it powers the water from the water tub all over the garden and produces 12 litres per minute, Its worth a punt for the money but won't give hot and cold, It will do one or the other,
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Post by tomplum on Jul 22, 2017 15:56:17 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2017 13:50:18 GMT
Thanks a lot for that. My CW is pretty strong coming off a high pressure mains, so I only need 1 impeller really. I think I might be able to get away with that device for what I had planned. As I said I have a bit of positive head & I guess that pump would bring me up to <1 bar in this situation. It should definitely solve my taps issue tho. Since fitting a couple of monobloc taps I've noticed the flow drop off a lot on the HW both upstairs & downstairs, the remaining 3/4" bath tap still delivers HW with a 'good' rate tho (& it's upstairs) so I assume bore is the choker on the monoblocs. I have started to wonder about the 2 & 3 way mixers that are popular now, I wanted to have a bath filler & a shower head connected up so would one of these devices work OK or can the pressure get choked by the bore of the block ? maybe it's just where I'm looking but taps for a bath don't seem as popular as centralized thermostatic controllers nowadays. BTW I appreciate all the advice, my field is normally PCs so whilst it isn't this boards focus (!) anyone have any issues with a windows PC & I may be able to point you in the right direction.
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Post by tomplum on Jul 24, 2017 15:32:43 GMT
I think in your case its a ' run it up the flag pole' situation, no one can recommend you use a pump on the hot and standing pressure on the cold simply because its 'just not playing cricket' but if it works, fuck um, and yes there's always room for a PC savvy person on here, I'll make you a board later on when I get round to it,
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2017 19:57:10 GMT
My own board. Sounds ominous! Hopefully I haven't bitten off more than I can chew. Do you know what the reasoning is for saying no to mix pumped & mains pressure? Would have thought if the mixer valve has a non-return valve it would protect the system. I just discovered this booster pump 1.5 cubic meters per hour (m3/h of flow rate) /25.00 Liters per minute (L/min / flow rate) I wonder how that compares to bar pressure ratings, can't seem to find a flow rate to BAR conversion....force vs flow, the height to which it lifts must be part of the calculation maybe I'll email em & see what they say.
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Post by Plumberboy on Jul 24, 2017 20:13:12 GMT
Hi mate, mixer valves will not function 100% unless you have equal pressures both sides.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2017 9:28:52 GMT
Thanks Plumberboy. Looks like I'm going to be doing a fair bit of messing about to figure this lot out.
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Post by arfur chrysaik on Jul 25, 2017 14:29:46 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2017 11:01:55 GMT
arfurchrysaik - I was really optimistic about that until I saw prices & that there have been a few that have been made extinct - Newteam Jetstream Venturi, Aquadart Hydroflo and Croydex H2O - all now obsolete. So is the tech not good or are manufacturers ditching it because they can't be bothered with complaints from people who don't like cool showers etc? The trevi A5699AA is still about but I've seen 1 reviewer say the cheaper Aquadart Hydroflo and Croydex H2O worked better I saw this & wondered if I could add something like this to a single pumped HW feed to even things up - Deva PEV002 Thermostatic Pressure Equalising Valve & then I saw this www.showerpowerbooster.co.uk/product/manual-shower-power-booster-sp1/Anyone tried one? Also I asked the seller & was told the 150w booster I linked to above outputs 0.2 -0.6 BAR, less than the 90w's claimed output!?
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Post by tomplum on Jul 26, 2017 11:12:49 GMT
I've never seen one or heard about them, If you fit one don't forget to let us know how it works,
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2017 13:17:06 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2017 17:33:15 GMT
Decided to buy this, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90W-Electronic-Automatic-Home-Shower-Washing-Machine-Water-Booster-Pump-151410/272276195786?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649The guy who designed the showerpowerbooster (the one I'd want is £140) tells me the unit gives a boost of 0.3 bar and this pump should apparently give up to 0.8, so I think given the price difference it's worth a go. I won't expect 0.8 bar but if its 0.3 or more I'll be happy. The worst that can happen is I can lose 33 quid and a section of pipe work. As I will fit it inline on a gravity feed system I will have to carefully figure out which pipes I'm gonna cut but I think despite the slightly more complex install the hundred pounds price difference is significant. Admittedly the showerpowerbooster uses some novel technology that makes water behave as if it has a greater pressure than is available does sound really intriguing, the question is do I want to try it given the cost difference!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2017 12:27:37 GMT
Finally have time to think about fitting this pump. I have hit 2 quandaries on this: 1 - can the pump be connected before the expansion T connection? Makes me think it would push up that as well.... On pic - Blue being the only space large enough to cut the pipes. Green is where I think it should go but the space & the fact the 'designer' has clustered several pipes together means I cannot get to a space large enough to slide in a pipe cutter without bending pipes & removing the HW cylinder - NOT my idea of a beginners job! 2 - this is more curiosity than concern, the pump diagram shows the body of the pump angled relative to location. For a vertical connection the unit has the motor raised above & the impeller below. I can bolt it to the wall & was going to direct the pipework with elbows anyway so not really a big deal. Struck me as unusual as all the salamanders etc seem happy to sit with motor parallel on a horizontal surface. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAs always any feedback greatly appreciated!!
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Post by tomplum on Sept 3, 2017 12:53:25 GMT
hello desantnik, the position on the pipe will not matter to performance, It has a 'flow switch' this is activated by running water so the pump will not run if water is still, so when a tap/shower is opened,the pump knows it and kicks in, it will push the water towards the tap/shower because thats the path of least restriction,
On the floor is the best position to fix the pump because of the weight of it and mount it on rubber to lessen the noise, If you are going to fix to the wall, use flexi connectors to lessen the vibration of the motor, though these motors are very quiet if the pipes are ridgid, it will amplify the sound,
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