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Post by tomplum on Apr 23, 2018 20:25:10 GMT
So with Dicks explainations and Tappys pics we have all the info here , thank you Dick and tappy,
Tappys very proud of the cheap little camera from Honkers he bought for £2.99 Dick, foto
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Post by crowsfoot on Apr 24, 2018 6:16:55 GMT
What do you mean £2.99?  I'll have you know that camera with all the attachments cost me upwards of fourteen bloody quid  !!! |
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Post by crowsfoot on Apr 24, 2018 6:19:36 GMT
I'll see if I can take a better picture of those "flow meters" Dick.
Tappy,
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Post by tomplum on Apr 24, 2018 8:04:49 GMT
What do you mean £2.99? I'll have you know that camera with all the attachments cost me upwards of fourteen bloody quid !!! EEK, sorry Tappy, I did't realize it was such an expensive camera,,  |
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Post by dickpuller on Apr 24, 2018 16:26:28 GMT
Right, more boring shit!
Floor Construction;
The UFH system in a concrete screed is the best, with the loops making contact with the concrete on all sides you have a huge ‘thermal mass’, which can generally be run at a low mean water temperature & wonderful for tiles too!!
Then there’s aluminium plates either fixed to the under side of a wooden floor or making direct contact with a wooden floor, with insulation between the joists, this will run at a higher temperature - as there’s no thermal mass. The plates transfer the heat.
Another way of doing it with a wooden floor, which is better, having the loops in a thin ‘pug’ or ‘biscuit’ of light weight concrete between the joists. This gives you a small thermal mass & therefore can run at a lower temperature then plates.
Also you can fix your loops to a reflective insulation, Kingspan for example & run that between your joists. But they involves Heating the air under the flooring & needs to run at much higher temperature. Skool Boy fizics told us that wood is not a good conductor of Heat(like wood pot handles), so concrete will always be best.
There’s many way of doing a UFH floor construction, but the one factor that’s important to Heat the people; Floor Surface Temperature.
Its fairly simple: I have a (5x2M)10M2 Room with a nett Floor area of 10M2 & to maintain a 21DegC temperature you have 1000watt Heat Loss(the loss from the fabric of the room, through wall & ceiling). So the floor will need to produce 100watts/M2.
That’s it, as simple as that!!!
Now to achieve my 100watts/M2 there’s several factors to consider; type of floor construction, loop spacing & mean water temperature. Other things also may have a bearing, South Facing Windows, where there’s a large Solar Gain or indeed large North Facing Windows where there’s a huge Heat loss. Then there’s Floor Finish, tiles on concrete is going to be great for heat transfer’ where Deep Shag Pile Carpet is bad.
Lots of factors to be considered at the Design Stage. So a moron Builder is certainly the wrong rsole to do the install!!
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