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Post by rocketmanbkk on Nov 1, 2018 7:23:29 GMT
I tried with a screwdriver to prise it off, hitting it as hard as I thought as I didn’t want to damage the bath, wd40 & went back 2hrs later to try again, nothing. Stuck fast. I’ll do a video when they’re off & im home, I’ll smash them off for all to see. I was expecting a quick job, grub screw off, heads off, buy or order new valves. You certainly get some awkward jobs, you do !! Yeah, I don’t mind the awkward jobs if the customer is willing to pay for it. If they want to pay rock bottom then I walk away. |
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Nov 1, 2018 7:24:37 GMT
Screwdriver wedged in the gap on the side with the hole for the grub screw, then tap under the protruding bit of the handle with your grips, it'll come off. Tried that JC, I reckon they’re rusted on Cheap shite taps, maybe Victoria Plumb |
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Post by woodbine66 on Nov 1, 2018 14:37:11 GMT
Rocky's problem with these taps is quite common. Some just seem to get corrosion on the shaft and the hole in the handle that seems to weld them on. Trouble is, you can only put a limited amount of force on the handles in case you damage the bath/basin.
If I'm fitting new taps for myself or family that I know I'm going to be repairing in the future, I take the heads off the shaft and put a bit of copper grease on the shaft then refit. That will never seize and comes off a treat even years later. 
Also, on new taps with washers and proper removable headgear (ie. traditional separate taps) I always put the new taps on the floor and crack open the headgear with spanner and retighten to a more sensible torque. This is because many new taps seem to be tightened up by a gorilla at the factory and they're sometimes almost impossible to dismantle to change washer in situ. We've all had the things spinning in the hole in basin because they're so fookin' tight.  |
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