ian
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Posts: 294
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Post by ian on Feb 4, 2019 22:48:00 GMT
I would try opening all of the locksheilds and trvs fully, let the heating run and then dial back the ones that get hot.
If the lockshields are virtually closed this will be reducing flow through the rads and the boiler and if the flow is slow through the boiler the water cannot take all of the heat being outputted, so the boiler self regulates/cuts out so it doesn't overheat. This means less heat energy being supplied to the rads.
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ian
chief spread
Posts: 294
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Post by ian on Feb 4, 2019 22:53:34 GMT
Well I feel we have a large piece of dirt in the enterence of the heat exchanger and would check there before pulling any pipe work out - since that returning temperature is so low and slow to reach a realistic temperature is my reason for that thought and that you've flushed the pipework and the filters wasn't on the return until later in the game is my supporting reasons! would it be worth trying to reverse the flow through the heat exchanger by disconnecting the flow and return and connecting a hose to the flow? |
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Post by wingnut on Feb 5, 2019 6:25:23 GMT
Well I feel we have a large piece of dirt in the enterence of the heat exchanger and would check there before pulling any pipe work out - since that returning temperature is so low and slow to reach a realistic temperature is my reason for that thought and that you've flushed the pipework and the filters wasn't on the return until later in the game is my supporting reasons! would it be worth trying to reverse the flow through the heat exchanger by disconnecting the flow and return and connecting a hose to the flow? So open all lockshield and TRV then shut lockshield on hot rads and leave wide open on cool rads? |
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Post by wingnut on Feb 5, 2019 6:26:08 GMT
would it be worth trying to reverse the flow through the heat exchanger by disconnecting the flow and return and connecting a hose to the flow? So open all lockshield and TRV then shut lockshield on hot rads and leave wide open on cool rads? Sorry quotes wrong one there |
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Post by wingnut on Feb 5, 2019 7:15:27 GMT
I would try opening all of the locksheilds and trvs fully, let the heating run and then dial back the ones that get hot. If the lockshields are virtually closed this will be reducing flow through the rads and the boiler and if the flow is slow through the boiler the water cannot take all of the heat being outputted, so the boiler self regulates/cuts out so it doesn't overheat. This means less heat energy being supplied to the rads. so all Lockshields and TRV's open, then close down Lockshield Valves on hot rads but leave fully open on cool ones? |
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ian
chief spread
Posts: 294
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Post by ian on Feb 5, 2019 7:34:06 GMT
I would try opening all of the locksheilds and trvs fully, let the heating run and then dial back the ones that get hot. If the lockshields are virtually closed this will be reducing flow through the rads and the boiler and if the flow is slow through the boiler the water cannot take all of the heat being outputted, so the boiler self regulates/cuts out so it doesn't overheat. This means less heat energy being supplied to the rads. so all Lockshields and TRV's open, then close down Lockshield Valves on hot rads but leave fully open on cool ones? Yes, do it gradually and aim towards having the locksheilds on the hottest rads as closed off as possible whilst still staying hot. As more rads get hot turn them down too and eventually all of them should come hot. |
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Post by wingnut on Feb 5, 2019 7:36:28 GMT
No worries, I’ll give that a go tonight
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Post by battle1066 on Feb 5, 2019 16:54:47 GMT
Well I feel we have a large piece of dirt in the enterence of the heat exchanger and would check there before pulling any pipe work out - since that returning temperature is so low and slow to reach a realistic temperature is my reason for that thought and that you've flushed the pipework and the filters wasn't on the return until later in the game is my supporting reasons! would it be worth trying to reverse the flow through the heat exchanger by disconnecting the flow and return and connecting a hose to the flow? I would try anything idea rather than pulling the house apart and since the boiler is located in the out-house the damage limitation should be easier to control. |
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Post by wingnut on Feb 5, 2019 18:49:12 GMT
would it be worth trying to reverse the flow through the heat exchanger by disconnecting the flow and return and connecting a hose to the flow? I would try anything idea rather than pulling the house apart and since the boiler is located in the out-house the damage limitation should be easier to control. Just to be clear its this heat exchanger isn't it? Page 38 Heat Exchanger |
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Post by battle1066 on Feb 5, 2019 19:40:39 GMT
I would try anything idea rather than pulling the house apart and since the boiler is located in the out-house the damage limitation should be easier to control. Just to be clear its this heat exchanger isn't it? Page 38 Heat ExchangerYes that's the one I would inspect for rust flakes as all systems have contamination just some less if they've had chemical added to reduce it. However, try Ian's suggestion with the valves first as there's not financial expenditure just time. |
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Post by wingnut on Feb 5, 2019 19:49:44 GMT
Just to be clear its this heat exchanger isn't it? Page 38 Heat ExchangerYes that's the one I would inspect for rust flakes as all systems have contamination just some less if they've had chemical added to reduce it. However, try Ian's suggestion with the valves first as there's not financial expenditure just time. Am doing ian’s suggestion as we speak, it appears to be working Rads still hot at top and cool on bottom but they are warmer |
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ian
chief spread
Posts: 294
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Post by ian on Feb 6, 2019 0:14:19 GMT
Yes that's the one I would inspect for rust flakes as all systems have contamination just some less if they've had chemical added to reduce it. However, try Ian's suggestion with the valves first as there's not financial expenditure just time. Am doing ian’s suggestion as we speak, it appears to be working Rads still hot at top and cool on bottom but they are warmer How did you get on? |
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Post by wingnut on Feb 6, 2019 6:18:13 GMT
Rads are warmer but still hot at top cool at bottom
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Post by crowsfoot on Feb 6, 2019 6:55:09 GMT
Turn the heating thermostat up to max on the boiler and see if that return can get any hotter.
I think you are almost there with it.
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Post by wingnut on Feb 6, 2019 7:04:56 GMT
That was on 24 the room only gets to 20
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