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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 1, 2021 16:16:24 GMT
With now 3 zones the existing JB was creaking at the seams. There's already 16 "ways" (connectors) along the right and another 8 I think at the back. Plus about 2 other wagos. Box wouldn't close and now is broke.... Was already there a bit like that but have to admit I've added to it over the years. Hardly any cable clamps or clips either. Any recommendation for a new JB? I see the honeywell one at screwfix looks good but is only got 10 connectors in it ! Also, would you just write down and copy the existing wiring or would you do it from scratch (lets assume you know what all the cables are without spending time checking). Maybe this would do it ? The examples shows a typical S plan with 2 zones but my extra zone only has one extra MV and one extra combined programmer/stat. www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Timeguard/SMTRT049N_Instructions.pdfFking hell. If I knew it was going to be this much bother I'd have been more careful trying to get the cables in neatly  On the plus side I do have time on my side - its all working with the cover stuck on with duck tape (!) Attachments:
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 1, 2021 18:38:38 GMT
Two gang surface fitted box 35mm, 5amp strip connector & a two gang blank plate. That’s all you’ll need.
Common all the Neutrals & Earths. You may need a 20amp block connector for all of them. A ten terminal block connector should do all the other Sw/L wires.
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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 1, 2021 18:59:00 GMT
Two gang surface fitted box 35mm, 5amp strip connector & a two gang blank plate. That’s all you’ll need. Common all the Neutrals & Earths. You may need a 20amp block connector for all of them. A ten terminal block connector should do all the other Sw/L wires. That's a cracking idea - might just do that. How come you've become helpful all of a sudden haha  |
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 1, 2021 19:04:17 GMT
I’m always helpful or try to be Dafty. But it comes with a degree of piss taking 😘
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Post by battle1066 on Jan 1, 2021 21:02:10 GMT
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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 1, 2021 22:29:50 GMT
Thanks for 2 great ideas. Both similar in a way. I like metal as it protects against fire.
Wouldn't rubber grommets be good enough and also is the cable strip sort of floating inside - maybe that doesn't matter as presumably the cables themselves should be clipped/clamped outside the box?
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Post by battle1066 on Jan 1, 2021 22:54:50 GMT
Thanks for 2 great ideas. Both similar in a way. I like metal as it protects against fire. Wouldn't rubber grommets be good enough and also is the cable strip sort of floating inside - maybe that doesn't matter as presumably the cables themselves should be clipped/clamped outside the box? Stuffing glands is the best for secure cable fixing. Your smart enough to make the terminal strip secure and accessible Dafty. However if your up for it you can use DIL Rail connectors but it's an overkill but the business! |
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 2, 2021 9:56:05 GMT
To secure any flex or cable in a two gang box. Stick a small cable tie on it inside the box, that’ll keep it from pulling out.
Sorry, but I don’t like the metal box idea, it’ll need to be Earthed or it could be dangerous when Live fault finding.
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Post by woodbine66 on Jan 2, 2021 12:04:06 GMT
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 2, 2021 12:15:50 GMT
Of course, it goes without saying; Dafty will be using Bootlace Ferrels on all stranded Flex wires.
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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 2, 2021 15:08:27 GMT
To secure any flex or cable in a two gang box. Stick a small cable tie on it inside the box, that’ll keep it from pulling out. Sorry, but I don’t like the metal box idea, it’ll need to be Earthed or it could be dangerous when Live fault finding. That is a good point if there is no flying earth connection on it. (and would also fail my soon to be done electrical safety test which is the main purpose of upgrading the box). Maybe purpose built is the best? Although I don't like all those supposedly "easy" boxes that tell you where to put every wire because they are not flexible. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 2, 2021 15:10:28 GMT
I guess the top one is definitely too small but is the bottom one big enough for a 3 zone system? MAybe I'd wire in all the 2 zones, then add the 3rd in using an extra connector or two as required ? |
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Post by battle1066 on Jan 2, 2021 18:09:39 GMT
To secure any flex or cable in a two gang box. Stick a small cable tie on it inside the box, that’ll keep it from pulling out. Sorry, but I don’t like the metal box idea, it’ll need to be Earthed or it could be dangerous when Live fault finding. That is a good point if there is no flying earth connection on it. (and would also fail my soon to be done electrical safety test which is the main purpose of upgrading the box). Maybe purpose built is the best? Although I don't like all those supposedly "easy" boxes that tell you where to put every wire because they are not flexible. I drill a hole in the box, brass bolt and earth tag that with a lead to the terminal strip earth when I do it. i've used most but when I know others may tapper this is by far the strongest and simplest to get all the cables and conductors into the terminal strip you can make it a sweet comfortable fit for the cables and stand offs to hold the terminal strip in place to allow easy testing. Finally as Dick says and I always do use the bootlaces ferrules it's worth the effort. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 2, 2021 18:50:50 GMT
That is a good point if there is no flying earth connection on it. (and would also fail my soon to be done electrical safety test which is the main purpose of upgrading the box). Maybe purpose built is the best? Although I don't like all those supposedly "easy" boxes that tell you where to put every wire because they are not flexible. I drill a hole in the box, brass bolt and earth tag that with a lead to the terminal strip earth when I do it. i've used most but when I know others may tapper this is by far the strongest and simplest to get all the cables and conductors into the terminal strip you can make it a sweet comfortable fit for the cables and stand offs to hold the terminal strip in place to allow easy testing. Finally as Dick says and I always do use the bootlaces ferrules it's worth the effort. Sounds like you do a 1st rate job Battle. I have to say if I ever did work for someone else (which I wouldn't) I would be worried about all the electrical installations and I can see why you would take such precautions. For me and just one installation, I think if I do go down that route as long as the box is earthed, regular connectors would be ok. |
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Post by battle1066 on Jan 2, 2021 19:43:35 GMT
I drill a hole in the box, brass bolt and earth tag that with a lead to the terminal strip earth when I do it. i've used most but when I know others may tamper this is by far the strongest and simplest to get all the cables and conductors into the terminal strip you can make it a sweet comfortable fit for the cables and stand offs to hold the terminal strip in place to allow easy testing. Finally as Dick says and I always do use the bootlaces ferrules it's worth the effort. Sounds like you do a 1st rate job Battle. I have to say if I ever did work for someone else (which I wouldn't) I would be worried about all the electrical installations and I can see why you would take such precautions. For me and just one installation, I think if I do go down that route as long as the box is earthed, regular connectors would be ok. So much of the modern property and equipment isn't built for repair - all the old school techniques stood the test of time and proved there durability. Mind I wouldn't buy a screwfix box - lid screws are poor fit and I prefer a box with at least on side blank so I can drill my own holes to suit the install needs. |
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On the plus side I do have time on my side - its all working with the cover stuck on with duck tape (!)
