|
|
Post by DIYDafty on Mar 13, 2021 17:27:43 GMT
So you're supposed to do this before sealing. Is that sealing/sticking bath to wall or bath to tiles ? And if you're gonna fill the bath half full before sealing, shouldn't you also tile with it half full? I've currently got the bath in place on its frame and stuck to the wall with the bath half full. Polymer silicone (for sticking) has been down a couple of hours. Not if I can start tiling above the bath  |
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Mar 13, 2021 18:52:00 GMT
That filling the bath myth is for ' have a go harry' who likes to say, " you don't want to be doing that", if the bath is going to move with water in, its not fixed proper,  |
|
|
|
Post by DIYDafty on Mar 13, 2021 19:13:38 GMT
Right that's it - its getting emptied.
I've framed it all round the back following advice on another thread and have glued it with stixall (same as ct1 supposedly)
I haven't yet supported the front or front corners but nobody's climbed in it yet.
Anyway I'm gonna empty and then frame the front. Then tile and do my final seal.
I have to say fitting this has been harder than anything else I've done plumbing wise - even more work than a shower tray.
|
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Mar 13, 2021 20:55:28 GMT
yes, baths are hard physical work, I've forgotten how many times I've planned to only lift it in position twice but, it never works out, you need to, drop it in position, mark the wall for the battern, the leg positions ( for the timbers under the legs), the holes for the L brackets, get your pipes set up measurements, then take it out, then do the battern screw holes and pipework, and 'drop it in again', again, only to find that, now its in on the feet timbers something needs alteration, out again and it gets heavier every time, this happens because the walls are not perfect ot the floor is not perfect, its a ball aching job made worse by, heavy baths, bulky 'P' shaped or taps in stupid places, fancy twist lift plugs, Am i Soo glad not to have to do any more,,,,  |
|
|
|
Post by DIYDafty on Mar 13, 2021 21:40:38 GMT
yes, baths are hard physical work, I've forgotten how many times I've planned to only lift it in position twice but, it never works out, you need to, drop it in position, mark the wall for the battern, the leg positions ( for the timbers under the legs), the holes for the L brackets, get your pipes set up measurements, then take it out, then do the battern screw holes and pipework, and 'drop it in again', again, only to find that, now its in on the feet timbers something needs alteration, out again and it gets heavier every time, this happens because the walls are not perfect ot the floor is not perfect, its a ball aching job made worse by, heavy baths, bulky 'P' shaped or taps in stupid places, fancy twist lift plugs, Am i Soo glad not to have to do any more,,,, I had mine in and out about 8 times haha. When the curtains are open the neighbour can see into our landing. He must have laughed at me carrying this fking bath backwards and forwards so many times. Dunno about you but its not just the weight and bulkiness its every time it bangs against a wall or something you've left on the floor really winds me up.... I think having done it once I can now see 100% what you mean about wasting time filling the bath - the bath should be rock solid and it is when its framed. e.g. Before I put in one corner post there was quite a bit of flex when you pushed on the corner. I've got my chop saw set up so no excuse to get a timber friction perfect. I glued (and mostly screwed) them and that corner now is virtually dead rigid. |
|
|
|
Post by dickpuller on Mar 14, 2021 8:43:31 GMT
As you can see here Dafty, from another thread I silicunt it to the wall without filling it, believe me there’s loads of movement in New Timber Frame Houses & the Bathrooms are always on the First Floor. You can’t see it on this photo but there’s two brackets along the back & one either side at the front. If you’re fitting on a Timber floor, it’ll move!! But it sits on that floor, so it has to go with it. Attachment Deleted |
|
|
|
Post by dickpuller on Mar 14, 2021 8:59:12 GMT
PS. By the way, these are Carron Acrylic Baths, they’re fucking heavy, but very good quality. You need to bore holes for the Taps too. But if you’re fitting loads, you can fit them in an hour & with careful planning on the First Fix, you only need about 5 x 15mm fittings & 1 x 40mm Waste bend. I rarely do First Fix, but the guys that do are top notch👍👍 Made in Falkirk at their large factory. They make quality gear, their sinks & Baths are second to none. www.carronbathrooms.com/public/our-heritage/ |
|
|
|
Post by DIYDafty on Mar 14, 2021 15:35:48 GMT
Well, after asking so many questions here's mine. Not 100% sure about the support on the tile but I've bounced on it and it seems ok. There supports in all 4 corners and 2 extra at the front. At the back it and left side it sits on a horizantal baton screwed/glued to the wall. Used a full tube of stixall at the back and sides. I should think Tom and Dick could install baths for an entire street in the time I did mine. But its rigid and watertight. dickpuller its a good point about wooden floors. I guess they move even more when its a new build? Anyway I did what Tom said and got it solid then sealed it to wall empty. Will do the same when I finish the tiles. |
|
|
|
Post by battle1066 on Mar 14, 2021 17:49:21 GMT
Well, after asking so many questions here's mine. Not 100% sure about the support on the tile but I've bounced on it and it seems ok. There supports in all 4 corners and 2 extra at the front. At the back it and left side it sits on a horizantal baton screwed/glued to the wall. Used a full tube of stixall at the back and sides. I should think Tom and Dick could install baths for an entire street in the time I did mine. But its rigid and watertight. dickpuller its a good point about wooden floors. I guess they move even more when its a new build? Anyway I did what Tom said and got it solid then sealed it to wall empty. Will do the same when I finish the tiles. DD another excellent job. However, it looks as though only one of the feet I can see has a screw in it? |
|
|
|
Post by DIYDafty on Mar 14, 2021 18:42:09 GMT
Thanks Battle thats very kind.
The front two feet definitely have one screw and the back right also does as I had access there for the filler.
I guess I could screw the last 2 in manually with a right angled screw driver. Maybe I'll try it
|
|
|
|
Post by wetfinger on Mar 14, 2021 19:39:30 GMT
Nice job Dafty, are you going to overlap the tanking tape over the bath 10mm especially on the right hand side?
|
|
|
|
Post by DIYDafty on Mar 14, 2021 20:16:18 GMT
Nice job Dafty, are you going to overlap the tanking tape over the bath 10mm especially on the right hand side? Oh oh! I wasn't sure about that. I figured if any water got behind the tiles it would drain down to the bath top but sounds like to do a proper job I should have overlapped it. But that would mean tanking after the bath is in? I don't think I'm gonna be in this house for too much longer. Mind you if we do rent it out the last thing we'd want it leaks. I can see a sale more likely now than renting it out haha......  Edit: I've not fixed those tiles yet. I suppose I could get some more tape and tank over it as I think I've a little compound left. Edit2: Bougt the rip-off tape (£12 !). Will fill gap on right with foam or filler then tape over then tanking rubber. Finally tiles. |
|
|
|
Post by wetfinger on Mar 14, 2021 22:51:52 GMT
Yes, many might think its overkill overlapping on a bath but it maintains that 3 layer barrier
1. Bath/tray sealed against tanking with silicone
2. Tape overlapped 10mm and tanked over
3. Tiles and silicone
Also when fitting the bath screen, pump silicone into the gap if you are fitting it before the final silicone process, they pull water into the box section and on a poorly fitted bath straight onto the floor under bath.
|
|
|
|
Post by DIYDafty on Mar 14, 2021 23:12:00 GMT
Yes, many might think its overkill overlapping on a bath but it maintains that 3 layer barrier 1. Bath/tray sealed against tanking with silicone 2. Tape overlapped 10mm and tanked over 3. Tiles and silicone Also when fitting the bath screen, pump silicone into the gap if you are fitting it before the final silicone process, they pull water into the box section and on a poorly fitted bath straight onto the floor under bath. Another great tip there thanks - I hadn't thought about the screen as much as I should have done. So maybe best is to tape&tank along that right edge of the bath, then tile it, then final seal the bath against the tiles. And only then put the shower screen on last ? I've got plenty of other stuff I can do whilst waiting for the tape to turn up. |
|
|
|
Post by dickpuller on Mar 15, 2021 6:33:20 GMT
Oh, you’re tiling!! You should’ve used cement based board & not Plasterboard Dafty. But hey, with over Bath showers, most of the water lands in the Bath.
Nice Bath, you’ll able to bang your Husband’s Head off the side when you’re shagging him in it👍👍👍
|
|
