Astra
Full Member
Posts: 219
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Post by Astra on Aug 5, 2021 18:14:37 GMT
Hi I have a customer today has his F&E tank overflowing been round tonight to take a look
the cylinder it self looks in really good condition & probably only max 11 years old as it has
a label on it stating LB1 2010 but someone has written 12 / 12 but I don't know what that means
customer has changed ball valve himself water is clean as I changed 3 way valve about 3 months
and as apart of my service I clean out the header tank and is still clean .........
Customer tells me that he emptied out 4 ltrs of water then 10 days later overflow started dripping
Hot water at taps is clean and not discoloured .......... there has been no pipework changes in the last
year both myself and my customer agree that the coil is split .........but i do not like spending customers
money and not really knowing the actual fault,,,,,,,,,,,, For me the condition of the tank is too good .........
Please can you Guy's let me have your thoughts ..........I have read the recent Post about the same subject
and just wondered if there was anything different for this case thank you..............
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Post by tomplum on Aug 5, 2021 18:49:41 GMT
its the same scenario Astra , I'm assuming the domestic tank is higher than the expansion tank thus forcing the lower tank to overflow,, If the owner has emptied the lower tank and its refilled, it can only come from, the ball valve ( you can get faulty ball valves ) or filling up from a perforated coil, You can rulle the ball valve out by tying up the ball or shutting off the cold supply, then go up and watch if the tank is rising, if it is, its the coil ,
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Post by dickpuller on Aug 5, 2021 20:48:35 GMT
As always,I agree with Tom. The other way to prove it’s the Coil is; shut off the Header Tank supply/ball valve. Drain it via a Hot Tap, leave it overnight & see if the F&E tank stops overflowing👍
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Astra
Full Member
Posts: 219
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Post by Astra on Aug 6, 2021 18:01:24 GMT
Hi Tom / Dick the customer has replaced the ball valve himself so that's brand new ......as I already said
I had already been reading the previous Thread started by Twinkletoes I quite like the two things that was
said to check Make sure the water level is already at a low enough level to let the expanded water in and
the other when you said tie the ball valve up in the header tank so no water can get in then see if the water
level still rises ....... Think I will try both of these first .....But as you say it looks like a split coil only thing
for me its a Basta*d job the things been shoe horned in and very little access...........shitttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt
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Post by tomplum on Aug 6, 2021 18:39:51 GMT
you' will get a lot like that, the builders think a 36x18 cylinder will jump into a 40x20 space, they know nothing of pipework, pump valves and insulation, bastards
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Post by endfeed on Aug 6, 2021 19:33:02 GMT
I've got similar situation to this, old peoples care home,large water tank in loft, cylinders on ground floor, the hole building's cold water is running hot and cracking the pot toilet cisterns in the resident's rooms! My money is on a split coil in cylinders. Can't think what else it could be?
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Post by tomplum on Aug 6, 2021 20:00:44 GMT
endfeed I would say somewhere in the home a mixer tap or shower valve or a blender is at fault and the hot water is mixing with the cold, Its gonna be a bitch to find,
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Post by endfeed on Aug 6, 2021 20:25:34 GMT
I don't know why but I ruled out the shower/tmvs/mixer taps because of the size of the building. This is going to be a needle in a hay stack 😱😱😱
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Post by tomplum on Aug 6, 2021 21:02:01 GMT
It sure is mate, That could take months of investigation if the home is occupied , Its mission impossible, I'd put 2 aspirins in the tank and say " that'll fix it and if it does't, call the office in the morning" and hope you're not there to get that job again,
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Post by endfeed on Aug 6, 2021 21:47:24 GMT
funny you should say that Tom, because guess who's on annual leave for the next 2 weeks,
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