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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 6, 2022 22:29:22 GMT
RD1 3100
Was working fine and still warm when I checked it. Calling for heat but then led 4 just blinks and I can hear a clicking (like a relay) every few seconds. Nothing starts.
Boiler manual says "Fan Startup" for led 4 blinking.
Any ideas ?
Can't believe it -happened 2 days before my family is due back !
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 6, 2022 22:54:18 GMT
Right I've checked the voltage at the fan and it cycles between 240V and 0 every second or two. It does it with the same timing as clicking I can here.
Is that the fan buggered? Can it be fixed?
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 6, 2022 23:49:31 GMT
Well just bought this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283042731089Probably the wrong thing to do but time will tell.... The existing fan seemed to turn very freely and thats what worries me a bit that maybe it isn't the fan? Mind you it does get 240v for a few seconds and does nothing so it must be faulty ? But why does the motherboard switch the power on and off like that? Family including two disabled 4 year olds turning up on the same day as this fan is supposed to. 8-( Haven't dared tell the wife yet in case she changes her mind and doesn't bring them home.... |
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Post by dickpuller on Feb 7, 2022 7:50:28 GMT
Have you checked the APS(air pressure switch) & cleaned the Ventura? Stick a temporary 240vac supply onto the fan, check it’s A1👍
The fan windings in a fan can be OK & the Fan Bearings fucked.
Top end faults on SE boilers are generally related to the above.
APS faults generally sound like relays clicking.
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 7, 2022 13:52:07 GMT
Cheers Dick !
I got the fan off. It spins freely. I applied 240v power from a normal plug and just nothing - dead. Just like it was on the boiler.
Only thing is I don't have the spade like connectors for N and L so I just stuffed bare copper in the socket. Even wiggled it around when live to ensure I was getting contact (health & safety yes I know.....).
So does sound like the fan or the transformer thing on the top of it ?
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 7, 2022 14:06:37 GMT
I've bought myself a Honeywell APS off ebay anyway. Even if it turns out not to be that (its looking like the fan??) I'll have it to future proof it.
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Post by tomplum on Feb 7, 2022 16:55:29 GMT
sorry Dafty I've only just seen this, I think you nailed it with the fan, if you wired 240 to it and, it won't go, thats gotta be it, when the board give it 240 the board waits for the APS to respond, as it not doing that, the board trys again and again for a few times then goes off, I'd keep the APS just in case,  |
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Post by battle1066 on Feb 7, 2022 18:00:50 GMT
Well done DD you’ve saved yourself a good few quid there and the fan price was a snip too!
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 7, 2022 19:27:40 GMT
Thanks a lot all and esp Tom and Dick. I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow if this part arrives ok. What worries me is do fans just "stop" like that. One second they're working and the next not a peep out of them (flan blades rotate fine by hand). Anyway, I've got tomorrow afternoon to get it done while the missus doesn't pay too much attention to the fan heaters around the house. If I can't get it working I'll be calling someone out and just gotta hope its someone who knows his stuff like the folk on this forum. Most likely the fker will say "....you need a new boiler mate..."  |
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Post by dickpuller on Feb 7, 2022 21:00:56 GMT
Check the Fan Ohms Resistance with a multimeter Dafty.
Fans on the Standard Efficiency Ideal Boilers are prone to failure, due to residual heat in the Cast Iron heat exchanger, however, it’s normally the Fan Bearings that fail.
Checking the coil resistance can fool you, it can meter out Ok & the bearing still fucked.
Video;
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Post by battle1066 on Feb 7, 2022 21:01:12 GMT
DD in your original pictures the wiring for the air switch looks rather damaged or is it just the photo? Attachment Deleted |
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 7, 2022 21:38:14 GMT
I've attached what I think is the switch. Following Dick's video, if I blow gently through the red tube on the right it does indeed switch the common between the 2 other contacts. So I think that is working. The white tube on the left doesn't do anything though maybe thats the "return" back to the fan. Well spotted Battle about the poor condition of the cabling but I think its good enough ?
On the fan I tried to get resistance readings but no matter how hard I tried I was only getting infinite resistance. My eyesight is getting worse and I don't like that I can't easily see bare metal on the contacts so am I getting a reading or not? I've attached a pic on the bench where I tried to insert bits of copper and then read from them. On that picture the contacts are the two on the right (dunno what the others are for).
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 7, 2022 21:42:48 GMT
Better angle
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Post by battle1066 on Feb 7, 2022 21:51:15 GMT
I've attached what I think is the switch. Following Dick's video, if I blow gently through the red tube on the right it does indeed switch the common between the 2 other contacts. So I think that is working. The white tube on the left doesn't do anything though maybe thats the "return" back to the fan. Well spotted Battle about the poor condition of the cabling but I think its good enough ? On the fan I tried to get resistance readings but no matter how hard I tried I was only getting infinite resistance. My eyesight is getting worse and I don't like that I can't easily see bare metal on the contacts so am I getting a reading or not? I've attached a pic on the bench where I tried to insert bits of copper and then read from them. On that picture the contacts are the two on the right (dunno what the others are for). On the lower image the top wire looks to be one side of the winding of the coil which should be attached to one of the contact points your testing at. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Feb 7, 2022 22:03:15 GMT
I've attached what I think is the switch. Following Dick's video, if I blow gently through the red tube on the right it does indeed switch the common between the 2 other contacts. So I think that is working. The white tube on the left doesn't do anything though maybe thats the "return" back to the fan. Well spotted Battle about the poor condition of the cabling but I think its good enough ? On the fan I tried to get resistance readings but no matter how hard I tried I was only getting infinite resistance. My eyesight is getting worse and I don't like that I can't easily see bare metal on the contacts so am I getting a reading or not? I've attached a pic on the bench where I tried to insert bits of copper and then read from them. On that picture the contacts are the two on the right (dunno what the others are for). On the lower image the top wire looks to be one side of the winding of the coil which should be attached to one of the contact points your testing at. I was kind of stuffing copper in there from different angles. The actual original connectors are on the boiler. They are metal so once they are in I can easily test. I'm thinking of putting the fan temporarily back in the boiler so I can get the contacts back in so I can test resistance (and try again to apply 240v). |
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