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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 3, 2018 14:38:30 GMT
Not had many issues with drilling tiles but once had an issue when I screwed in the tile cracked.
Now I try to hammer the plug past the tile in the wall.
Any tips & tricks to avoid cracking tiles?
Cheers all
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Post by woodbine66 on Aug 3, 2018 15:57:36 GMT
My technique, using ordinary masonry bits, I never bother with special tile bits.
1) Mark tile where you want the hole
2) Hold the drill with the tip of bit hard up against the mark on tile
3) Rotate the drill chuck clockwise by hand whilst applying pressure - pushing the drill against tile. Keep turning chuck by hand until you have penetrated the tile's glaze. Going through the thin layer of glaze on tile's surface like this stops the drill skidding across the tile when turned on.
4) Drill through the tile with hammer action off.
5) When through tile, turn on hammer and drill to required depth in wall
6) Insert plug so whole plug is in brick/block only - not in hole in tile.
7) Insert screw and tighten
This method of breaking through glaze first means no skidding and you get good control by hand over start of hole. Having end of plug below tile surface means much lower risk of tile cracking when screw is tightened and plug expands. |
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 3, 2018 16:02:17 GMT
I do that too
Skidding about is no good
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Post by woodbine66 on Aug 3, 2018 16:05:07 GMT
Aye. Skid marks are never a good look. 
Another way of getting the bit to start where you want without skidding is to put several layers of masking tape on the tile where you want the hole. Then hold the drill firmly against the tape and start the drill off slowly. The bit gets a bite in the tape before it starts going through the tile. This is a good method for different types of tile that don't have a glaze. |
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Post by joinerjohn on Aug 3, 2018 17:12:11 GMT
I mark where the centre of the hole is going to be then hold a sharp nail on that mark and tap it a few times with a hammer (enough to break the glaze of the tile. Drill with a masonry bit (no hammer action until it's though the tile) Clean out the hole, plug n screw. Never had a tile break on me yet.  |
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2018 18:33:37 GMT
Porcelain tiles are the worst to drill you can spend hours drilling them fuckers, I can drill a 20mm hole through a granite worktops quicker than I can drill a 6mm hole in a porcelain tile. smiley-whacky086 fan shit
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Post by jcplumb on Aug 3, 2018 19:25:20 GMT
I've got a customer who needs a hand rail putting over her bath, it will be horizontal so I'm worried that putting any weight on it will crack the tile, been putting the job off for a couple of weeks now as I'm not keen.
I reckon I'll end up putting a 15mm copper sheath around the screws to butt up to the masonry and take stress off the tiles.
Unless anyone knows a better way?
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Post by battle1066 on Aug 3, 2018 19:49:52 GMT
I've got a customer who needs a hand rail putting over her bath, it will be horizontal so I'm worried that putting any weight on it will crack the tile, been putting the job off for a couple of weeks now as I'm not keen. I reckon I'll end up putting a 15mm copper sheath around the screws to butt up to the masonry and take stress off the tiles. Unless anyone knows a better way? Not the easiest problem when a persons body weight is being applied to a stoothing wall, for an item which has the potential to be at a position with no solid fixings, for the handle rail, yet needs to be at a fixed location for its operation to be of any use. The last one I done for an over weight person required fixings actually through the wall into the cylinder cupboard and nuts and bolts - so each job is subject to the person who's using it own physical stature and the wall type, cause those over size people do more than crack a tile. |
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Post by tomplum on Aug 3, 2018 19:51:26 GMT
use these to cut the tile www.screwfix.com/p/glass-drill-bit-set-4-pcs/1598vcheap as chips works well on ceramics and porcelain, but use coolant ( water] on porcelain and Go slow then knock the plug into the brick/block so it don't stress the tile, If its plasterboard behind it, don't hang any weight bearing stuff, like hand grips or seats, it won't take it, |
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Post by battle1066 on Aug 3, 2018 19:59:09 GMT
use these to cut the tile www.screwfix.com/p/glass-drill-bit-set-4-pcs/1598vcheap as chips works well on ceramics and porcelain, but use coolant ( water] on porcelain and Go slow then knock the plug into the brick/block so it don't stress the tile, If its plasterboard behind it, don't hang any weight bearing stuff, like hand grips or seats, it won't take it, I do find those bits very good but I find they have a short life expectancy - although I've never tried using coolant. |
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Post by tomplum on Aug 3, 2018 20:03:42 GMT
coolant and go slow is the key Battle, they are better than the diamond cutters costing £££££Ssssss if you use them right,  |
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Post by boilerdoktor on Aug 3, 2018 20:57:10 GMT
I mark the tile, get a new sharp screw, tap it gently on the mark to crack the glaze. Drill without hammer and push the raw plug through so when it’s expanded with the screw it’s all behind the tile
i never crack them with this method
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Post by dickpuller on Aug 4, 2018 6:22:35 GMT
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 4, 2018 6:36:11 GMT
I've got a customer who needs a hand rail putting over her bath, it will be horizontal so I'm worried that putting any weight on it will crack the tile, been putting the job off for a couple of weeks now as I'm not keen. I reckon I'll end up putting a 15mm copper sheath around the screws to butt up to the masonry and take stress off the tiles. Unless anyone knows a better way? I’ve put rails up for a woman just last week. It’s been ongoing & she now has about 8 of them, no problems with them coming out of wall, 3 screws in each end & a all good. |
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