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Post by tomplum on Nov 5, 2018 17:00:08 GMT
first job fill the rads, to do this undo the bleed nipple at the top of the rad do the downstairs first, then upstairs,
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Post by tomplum on Nov 5, 2018 17:01:36 GMT
as you are doing this listen for the tank filling up,
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Post by tomplum on Nov 5, 2018 17:02:40 GMT
when they are all full, then turn on the heating and hot water,
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Post by fastflowfred on Nov 5, 2018 18:24:38 GMT
first job fill the rads, to do this undo the bleed nipple at the top of the rad do the downstairs first, then upstairs, Done that. The empty ones obviously blew like the west wind. The three that didn't drain, pissed water again when bled. The upstairs all gurgled away & seemed to fill OK. Almost impossible to tell if the F&E tank was filling as I went along, sorry. But plenty of gurgling going on as I said. Should i be doing this with the system calling for heat (CH)? Then I can check if the terrible trio are working (getting hot). Tried the water only and it (the new 3 port valve) seems to be working OK. However the pump seems to be making more of a racket (whirring) than previously? |
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Post by fastflowfred on Nov 5, 2018 18:25:49 GMT
when they are all full, then turn on the heating and hot water, Ooops, sorry. Missed this one. So run both CH & H/W to check? |
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Post by tomplum on Nov 5, 2018 18:27:24 GMT
thats just air don't worry, put it on water and heating and let it run, you'll know if you're doing good if the boiler keeps alight,
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Post by tomplum on Nov 5, 2018 18:30:18 GMT
if the boiler goes out, that shows its not cirulating, don't worry about any cold rads just yet, lets get the main circs going first,
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Post by fastflowfred on Nov 5, 2018 20:50:35 GMT
if the boiler goes out, that shows its not cirulating, don't worry about any cold rads just yet, lets get the main circs going first, Cherrs Tom. No, not gone out (yet anyway). But yup, there's plenty of air in there - worse than me after a madras. Gurgle, gurgle... I'll report back in the a.m. - but pretty sure those rads are 'stuck' on cold. p.s. I better not put in the inhibitor yet I take it, in case we have to do the flushing thing tomorrow? |
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Post by tomplum on Nov 5, 2018 21:09:09 GMT
ok if the boiler staying in we are winning, next thing to do is, turn off, let the pump stop ( it will have an overrun) then bleed the rads, the downstairs will probably be full cos the air goes upstairs mostly, and bleed the cylinder too if it has an air vent, usually on the top pipe heating pipe from the three port valve, when water comes out of every rad and cylinder bleed valve, switch on again and let it run again, then tomorrow we'll get those lazy rads going,
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Post by fastflowfred on Nov 5, 2018 21:18:17 GMT
ok if the boiler staying in we are winning, next thing to do is, turn off, let the pump stop ( it will have an overrun) then bleed the rads, the downstairs will probably be full cos the air goes upstairs mostly, and bleed the cylinder too if it has an air vent, usually on the top pipe heating pipe from the three port valve, when water comes out of every rad and cylinder bleed valve, switch on again and let it run again, then tomorrow we'll get those lazy rads going, Thanks Tom. It has stayed in while I've run it this past hour. Will do bleeds (I even know where the cylinder air vent is amazingly) and will check back in tomorrow. We're getting some heat and hot water amid the rumbles in the pipes, so at least Mrs FFF is mildy happier. 😉 |
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Post by tomplum on Nov 5, 2018 21:39:12 GMT
to take Mrs FFF from mildly happy to happier, remind her the call out and charges of a gas safe engineer to fit a valve and do the work would be in the region of £350 to £500 and how much shopping she can get for that, must be worth a blow job at least,,  |
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Post by woodbine66 on Nov 6, 2018 14:38:39 GMT
, must be worth a blow job at least,,
That's a new way of shifting airlocks, Tom. 
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Post by woodbine66 on Nov 6, 2018 14:42:47 GMT
One bit of advice for Fastflow (poss too late now) is to latch the 3 port valve into mid position with the lever on the side. It's always the second thing I do after knocking power off when draining one of these systems. Helps the system drain better and refill better. Same with 2 ports - get the levers latched before draining.
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Post by fastflowfred on Nov 6, 2018 16:10:03 GMT
ok if the boiler staying in we are winning, next thing to do is, turn off, let the pump stop ( it will have an overrun) then bleed the rads, the downstairs will probably be full cos the air goes upstairs mostly, and bleed the cylinder too if it has an air vent, usually on the top pipe heating pipe from the three port valve, when water comes out of every rad and cylinder bleed valve, switch on again and let it run again, then tomorrow we'll get those lazy rads going, Promising. Gave the H/W & the CH a run to get water moving in the pipes. Then ran it as just CH to give the rads full opportunity to get hot (& hopefully dislodge any air). Must admit, I did the rad bleeds while the CH was still on (is that such a bad thing?) and, as predicted, got plenty of air out of the the drain off one downstairs and nearly all the upstairs ones as expected, expecially the tall towel rad. That said, they are ALL (inc the three lazy ones that wouldn't drain yesterday) getting pretty damn good H/W and thus, giving good heat output so far. Yippee. They'll get ano good blast tonight to double check but so far, so good. Any air pockets that remained seem to have been pushed up (& now out). So, as it stands, no air lock remedies required. (Famous last words no doubt.) I'll just hang fire also on declaring it all systems go until I treble check all the new valve fittings (again so far, so good). Then I can have a go at this balancing mularky (albeit, at a first check they all seemed to be chucking fairly even heat out). Pending that, I won't put in my F1 Fernox just yet, just in case there's still a drain down / flush ahead. That said, pretty sure there is still some dirty old water in there by the looks when I bled some of them and doesn't look like the F3 cleaner I put in made much of a dint in the water quality? Do i need to improve that water quality otherwise will that make putting inhibitor in to dirtier (than ideal) water a waste? And if so, is it still the case that i should flush some water through (in the method you described earlier Tom - by draining one off with a hose and letting the f&e run / refill 'til it runs clean (er)? Cheers Tom. |
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Post by fastflowfred on Nov 6, 2018 16:12:49 GMT
, must be worth a blow job at least,,
That's a new way of shifting airlocks, Tom. 
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