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Post by DIYDafty on Jul 20, 2019 23:52:53 GMT
Thinking about how to wire this up for a new zone. N and L is obvious I guess (to power the unit as it doesn't have batteries) but what about COM/NO1 for the heating? Does it mean it needs a second Live feed to go into COM and then the unit will switch the output to NO1 ? Why can't it use the live feed going into L and just use that to switch the output ? Either way, I guess the output goes into my motorised valve. Anything constructive mucho appreciated ! heating.danfoss.com/PCMPDF/VIHSH102%20TPOneM%20Installation%20Guide.pdf |
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Post by crowsfoot on Jul 21, 2019 6:41:57 GMT
What are you planning to zone (isolate) DD?
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Post by DIYDafty on Jul 21, 2019 12:59:14 GMT
Its a big room above the garage I'm doing up for use by a lodger. Already put in en-suite (with a lot of help from this forum) so will be 2 rads and a towel rail.
I've already got a reel of 1mm t+e and thinking I might have to run two cables - one to power it and one for the switching. I guess multi-core is the ideal but would rather use what I've got if I can.
I guess worst comes to worst I could connect a plug and test probe it.
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Post by DIYDafty on Jul 21, 2019 13:13:23 GMT
Just looked at the wiring diagram of the honeywell zone valve and the funny thing is it shows just one switched live per zone coming out of the programmer. So I don't know why this integrated danfoss programmer/thermostat has 2 terminals per zone.
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Jul 21, 2019 16:13:32 GMT
Just looked at the wiring diagram of the honeywell zone valve and the funny thing is it shows just one switched live per zone coming out of the programmer. So I don't know why this integrated danfoss programmer/thermostat has 2 terminals per zone. You need a professional. You could be messing about for days! |
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Post by DIYDafty on Jul 21, 2019 16:51:47 GMT
Right. In case anyone else lands here to find out about the Danfoss TPOne-M I think I know what's going on.
1/ N,L to power device that's obvious
2/ On the CH side, this device acts like a normal wall stat so expects a live/common in (COM) and will switch it to the output NO1 depending on whether it wants to call for heat or not.
3/ On the HW side, it acts like a normal programmer because it expects there to be an external cylinder stat. So it will switch the L into NC2 or NO2 depending on whether it is calling for hot water or not.
So yes with 1mm t+e I will need two cables run from it to the main CH junction box in the airing cupboard: One for N,L and the other to COM and NO1 for heating. I'm not using it for HW. THat will also keep all electrics protected by the existing 3A fused spur.
That's my theory I could be wrong !
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Post by tomplum on Jul 21, 2019 19:22:43 GMT
the programmer needs a NO ( normally open and a NC ( normally closed) because when the water reaches temp, its swithes over to the second, normal closed to power the heating if needed, that also works visa versa if the heating reaches temp and hot water is needed,
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Post by crowsfoot on Jul 21, 2019 19:23:06 GMT
Sounds a bit of an oddity DD. This special programmer has different heating zones that can each be controlled by MVs? A bit like a burglar alarm? I've never seen/fitted anything like that DD. Personally, I'd just fit a MV in the lodgers section of the house and a separate time clock in mine so I can control it, that way you can switch him off and keep him cold in his section of the building while you'll be like warm toast  . Should keep him on time with the rent during a cold snap of weather  ! |
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Post by DIYDafty on Jul 21, 2019 20:35:32 GMT
Sounds a bit of an oddity DD. This special programmer has different heating zones that can each be controlled by MVs? A bit like a burglar alarm? I've never seen/fitted anything like that DD. Personally, I'd just fit a MV in the lodgers section of the house and a separate time clock in mine so I can control it, that way you can switch him off and keep him cold in his section of the building while you'll be like warm toast . Should keep him on time with the rent during a cold snap of weather ! HAHA - that's a good idea. I bought it for a tenner from Ebay. Thought it looked good for that money. As I understand it, it is a normal programmer combined with a room stat. This guy reviews it but doesn't say anything about the wiring. Mine isn't the RF version either - its all wired which I prefer. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Jul 21, 2019 20:37:16 GMT
the programmer needs a NO ( normally open and a NC ( normally closed) because when the water reaches temp, its swithes over to the second, normal closed to power the heating if needed, that also works visa versa if the heating reaches temp and hot water is needed, I think I'm with you. I'm only using it for heating. In any case I tested it on the bench today and when you make it call for central heating, it just connects COM to NO1. Was wondering if I can bridge L and COM since they're the same aren't they? Thanks a lot also for explaing what NC and NO mean !!! |
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Post by battle1066 on Jul 21, 2019 20:58:08 GMT
the programmer needs a NO ( normally open and a NC ( normally closed) because when the water reaches temp, its swithes over to the second, normal closed to power the heating if needed, that also works visa versa if the heating reaches temp and hot water is needed, I think I'm with you. I'm only using it for heating. In any case I tested it on the bench today and when you make it call for central heating, it just connects COM to NO1. Was wondering if I can bridge L and COM since they're the same aren't they? Thanks a lot also for explaing what NC and NO mean !!! DD yes you could put a link from the L terminal connection to the COM terminal connection and it would give you a programmable switched live at NO1 |
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