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Post by jitasb on Aug 25, 2019 21:17:23 GMT
Hello all.
Need to clean the filters in my Mira Event power shower. The hot and cold feeds both have gate valves for isolating the water supply.
Unfortunately the cold water one is very old so when trying to turn it off the wheel just spins but no closing occurs.
The cold feed comes directly from the cold water tank in the loft (i.e. gravity fed). I checked the loft but there is no isolation valve up there on that pipe.
So a couple of questions: 1. Is there any way to get this gate valve to work so that it closes and then will re-open. 2. The obvious alternative is to empty the cold water tank in the loft and then replace the gate valve. Not sure what sort of volume would be in that tank ? And what is the normal approach to empty it ? Is it just a case of turning off the mains and then syphoning all water out of tank via a hose pipe.
Thanks.
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Post by DIYDafty on Aug 25, 2019 21:39:48 GMT
I'm sure you'll get a proper answer from a time served plumber like Tom and the others but in the meantime I can tell you what I've learned (subject to correction as I'm only a lowly DIYer !!). First, gate valves are not good. If you do drain down then much better to get a full bore lever valve to replace them. e.g. if 22mm then something like this but there are also 15mm and 28mm varients: www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore-lever-ball-valve-yellow-22mm/30584ALso to drain down either turn off mains or tie up ballcock in the tank. Then can't you just turn on a cold tap somewhere or flush a WC several times? Capacity wise even if you have a 50 gallon tank that's still only about 230 litres.
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Post by jitasb on Aug 25, 2019 21:51:38 GMT
Thanks for reply DD.
Yes I did turn off the mains and ran the cold taps in the house until they stopped running.
The problem is that even after doing this there is still a cold feed to the shower. Looking at the pipework > There is one pipe which comes from loft CW tank and it comes down into the airing cupboard > thru the Gate Valve > then direct thru the wall into back of the Mira Shower. It doesn't feed anywhere else. So I think (obviously no expert) that this pipe is solely for the shower and doesn't go anywhere else > and if I can't close the gate valve then it will keep flowing to the shower until the tank is empty.
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Post by DIYDafty on Aug 25, 2019 22:17:59 GMT
Ok so if you ran the cold taps until they stopped running then surely at that point you've _almost_ emptied the tank? Have you checked the level in the tank? And is it possible that your cold taps are mains fed? That would mean turning them on wouldn't empty your tank. You should expect it to take a good 10 or 20 minutes or so for it to empty.
Wouldn't the easiest be to turn off the mains then run the shower until it stops?
I don't want to say anymore in case I'm giving you the wrong advice.
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Post by jitasb on Aug 25, 2019 23:00:40 GMT
Ok so if you ran the cold taps until they stopped running then surely at that point you've _almost_ emptied the tank? Have you checked the level in the tank? And is it possible that your cold taps are mains fed? That would mean turning them on wouldn't empty your tank. You should expect it to take a good 10 or 20 minutes or so for it to empty. Wouldn't the easiest be to turn off the mains then run the shower until it stops? I don't want to say anymore in case I'm giving you the wrong advice. No problem, the more input the better. I maybe didn't explain very well. Here are the main steps I did. Actually listing it made me realize where I went wrong (maybe). 1. Turned off rising main. 2. From Loft CW tank there is a pipe which runs down into bottom of cylinder > so this is cold water feed to the cylinder (in airing cupboard) and is in effect the feed to hot taps (as I understand it) > Closed this as well. (belt and braces) 3. From Cylinder in airing cupboard there is main pipe which comes out of top > this is the feed to hot water taps (as i understand it). This pipe splits into two > one for taps and also one which goes thru gate valve and then into back of shower > closed this gate Valve ok as it turned fine. 4. From Loft CW tank there is a pipe which comes down into airing cupboard > thru a gate valve > into back of shower > This is the gate valve I couldn't close. 5. Ran taps until they stopped. At this point, If I try to mess with the shower, there is still a cold water feed coming into the shower. So to my mind the cold water tank in the loft is not empty and it has to be empty in order to stop the cold feed into the shower as i can't close the pipe in Step 4. The cold water taps are mains fed i think like you suggested as they stopped running after a few minutes. Anyway, thinking about it, I guess I could empty the cold water water in loft by not doing Step 2. In which case if I kept running the hot taps, the water would continue to flow from CW tank in loft into the Cylinder. But it wouldn't be replaced from the mains as I have turned off the rising main. Then eventually the CW tank in loft would run out of water ? P.S I didn't go into the loft to visually check the level. I guess I should have done really, but man it was hot up there and then we had people come round and i was already sweating buckets..lol P.P.S > yes I could keep running the shower with mains turned off > but at the moment there is no shower tray so no where for water to go. ( I should have mentioned that ..apologies) Thanks for replies so far.
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Post by DIYDafty on Aug 25, 2019 23:12:19 GMT
I think when you see your tank it will be a lot clearer.
If it took several minutes for your cold taps to stop running after turning off the rising main then surely they are NOT mains fed. If they were they'd stop almost immediately after you turned off the stopcock for the rising main.
I don't understand why you can't turn off the rising main and then just run your shower for a long time. It must surely at some point stop producing water.
I know its hot (tomorrow will be at least as bad) but I think you really do need to look into your cold water cistern so you can see what is going on.
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 26, 2019 4:13:22 GMT
Get a rubber bung & stick it in the hole in the cw storage where the cold flows from to the shower, turn the cold shower / tap on & make sure it’s not running, they’re maybe a little bit giving way, that’s ok, undo the gate valve nut &’slowly pull the pipe out, there may be some water, if you’re confident swap the gate valve for a lever valve, do the same for the hot while you’re at it.
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 26, 2019 4:15:21 GMT
I'm sure you'll get a proper answer from a time served plumber like Tom and the others but in the meantime I can tell you what I've learned (subject to correction as I'm only a lowly DIYer !!). First, gate valves are not good. If you do drain down then much better to get a full bore lever valve to replace them. e.g. if 22mm then something like this but there are also 15mm and 28mm varients: www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore-lever-ball-valve-yellow-22mm/30584ALso to drain down either turn off mains or tie up ballcock in the tank. Then can't you just turn on a cold tap somewhere or flush a WC several times? Capacity wise even if you have a 50 gallon tank that's still only about 230 litres. The problems with this method is air locks, if he gets an air lock can he remove it? If not, he’s screwed.
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Post by endfeed on Aug 26, 2019 9:46:39 GMT
Get some plumber boy(my nick name for them)bungs in the tanks and stop the flow. the gate valve has snapped inside, that is why it's spinning, definitely replace with lever valves as dafty says👍👍👍👍👍
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 26, 2019 10:13:22 GMT
Get some plumber boy(my nick name for them)bungs in the tanks and stop the flow. the gate valve has snapped inside, that is why it's spinning, definitely replace with lever valves as dafty says👍👍👍👍👍 Correct
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Post by jitasb on Aug 26, 2019 12:55:58 GMT
Thanks very much for all help and replies. I'll have a look in the CW tank in loft to see how all the pipes flow. Using a bung to stop the flow sounds like the way to go. And I'll have a look at replacing the gate valves with full bore lever. For these, the cold water one should be ok as I will have stopped the feed from CW tank in loft. With regards to the hot one > I currently don't have an isolation valve from the main pipe coming from the top of Cylinder. Would I need to reduce the level of water in Cylinder before undoing the hot water gate valve ? I guess I could close that gate valve and install the lever valve further up the pipe. Then I would have two valves on the hot pipe. Maybe confusing, but not that bothered by it since it is our own house. Couple of pictures attached. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 26, 2019 14:06:54 GMT
Thanks very much for all help and replies. I'll have a look in the CW tank in loft to see how all the pipes flow. Using a bung to stop the flow sounds like the way to go. And I'll have a look at replacing the gate valves with full bore lever. For these, the cold water one should be ok as I will have stopped the feed from CW tank in loft. With regards to the hot one > I currently don't have an isolation valve from the main pipe coming from the top of Cylinder. Would I need to reduce the level of water in Cylinder before undoing the hot water gate valve ? I guess I could close that gate valve and install the lever valve further up the pipe. Then I would have two valves on the hot pipe. Maybe confusing, but not that bothered by it since it is our own house. Couple of pictures attached. View AttachmentView AttachmentBung the hot outlet in the cwsc in the attic as you will do for the cold mate. Same process. DO NOT bung the vent.
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Post by DIYDafty on Aug 26, 2019 15:41:37 GMT
Only thing is do those bungs work up to 28mm tank connectors? As a DIYer I#ve no idea if such connectors are common but in my house, they are used for both hot and cold feeds out of the tank. The shower feeds are obviously 22mm.
And one question on airlocks. Can they be avoided by keeping most/all taps open until they start running when filling up? Maybe or maybe I've just been lucky here with the way the pipes are layed out but don't think I've had an airlock on the HW. Had plenty of the CH though !
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Post by endfeed on Aug 26, 2019 18:59:10 GMT
The regin bungs works on 28mm, as for air locks just give any air locked pipes a blast of mains pressure up it👍👍👍👍
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Aug 27, 2019 7:14:58 GMT
The regin bungs works on 28mm, as for air locks just give any air locked pipes a blast of mains pressure up it👍👍👍👍 When you know about air locks it’s a simpler process but in my opinion a non plumber dafty providing advice could land people in all sorts of problems. I know the advice is given with the best intentions but sometimes you need to leave the advice out. Don’t touch that keyboard!!
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