|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 6, 2019 20:03:03 GMT
Hi first post on here. Ref Tom's video. Do you have to isolate the boiler, Baxi 105he from the system when you flush the rads. Can I isolate all rads except the one I'm using for the flow and return and flush the boiler as well? I flushed the whole system last week as I had very low heat on one rad. I've bled balanced and removed airlocks but it's still not amazing. I've also rigged up a pressure valve using an old tyre valve as per tom's other video as I thought I had a blockage on the return on that rad. After flushing there wasn't alot of crud and flow seemed ok off all individual radiators. I've spoken to a plumber friend who says it may be the pump that is at fault. The return pipe doesn't feel that warm yet the pump is very hot. I've got a spare pump from a boiler he stripped and it works after testing but there seems to be about 3 to 4 mm endfloat on the impeller would thus be ok. Can I back flush the boiler. I know I may have a blockage in the plate exchanger as the hot water temp fluctuates. Also the boiler runs for about 5 mins then shuts off for about 3 mins then cycles again. It does this continousl. I've also got a spare plate exchanger that I'm going to change.
Any thoughts. Sorry for the long post. Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 6, 2019 20:04:56 GMT
Also forgot to mention I've got x800 in at the moment and have noticed after bleeding that water is a lot dirtier than when I flushed the system. Hopefully gonna drain and refill on Monday.
|
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Nov 6, 2019 20:09:43 GMT
hello Lamby, thanks for joining the brewcabin, I hope we can solve this problem for you,
first of all, keep the boiler open while you flush as it sounds like you have a blockage somewhere and it will flush the boiler too, If you've flushed it as per my video and no improvement can be seen or felt, add some sentinell x800 and let that run round for about a week, then drain off and try flushing again,
|
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Nov 6, 2019 20:10:53 GMT
right ok thats the right thing to do,,  |
|
|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 6, 2019 20:18:58 GMT
Ok thanks Tom. Originally I flushed it last Thursday with the boiler isolated from system.I added x800 on Monday and there is a slight improvement. Hopefully flush the system on monday and try the spare pump.
|
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Nov 6, 2019 20:25:26 GMT
yes thats good, we can perhaps narrow it down as you go, for instance if 4 radiators improve and some don't we can take action in a different direction, So report back after then next drain down and we 'll see where to go next, Meanwhile have a look round the sight and post wherever you want, we give advice on other stuff too, beer drinking, gardening,bikeing, shagging, all sorts of things,  |
|
|
|
Post by dickpuller on Nov 7, 2019 6:34:15 GMT
yes thats good, we can perhaps narrow it down as you go, for instance if 4 radiators improve and some don't we can take action in a different direction, So report back after then next drain down and we 'll see where to go next, Meanwhile have a look round the sight and post wherever you want, we give advice on other stuff too, beer drinking, gardening,bikeing, shagging, all sorts of things, .........oh & don’t forget fashion, buggery, Doggin, masterbating, tea baggin...........etc etc etc💋💋 |
|
|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 11, 2019 20:34:35 GMT
I didn't get a chance to flush the system today but I'm hopefully going to do it tomorrow. Question. When I flush the system can I alternate the flow through the boiler to flush it out. Will that cause any problems? Also can I close off all valves on the rads and push cold water through on the return flow from one return valve through to another return valve that would be open at that end to try and clear any blockage. Hope you understand what I mean. Thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Nov 11, 2019 20:59:29 GMT
there are no fixed rules to innovation, You are 'johnny on the spot', So try it anyway you can think of, then come back and tell us what worked, then we tell the world, this is how the brewcabin works, you take stuff out of the cabin, then bring stuff back in, Its a sharing and learning world, unique in this day and age of self self grab n run, if you fuck up, we will do our best to put it right, |
|
|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 11, 2019 21:17:18 GMT
Ok thanks I'll get back to you tomorrow.
|
|
|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 13, 2019 18:44:56 GMT
Update........Baxi 105he 10 rads, mixture of 8mm and 10 mm pipework. I flushed out the boiler both ways and flushed the radiator system of the x800 and refilled. I also managed to soak half the hall when flushing as i connected a hose which I thought was connected to a rad valve but was in fact open.
I managed to get an old radiator that hasn't worked for about 2 years to heat and the boiler sounds better as well with the hot water getting quite hot. The original problem rad is getting hot but not as hot as the rest of them and is the last one to heat as well. I'm going to fill with x400 next and leave that in for a couple of weeks. My plumber friend is coming over on the weekend to maybe change/swap the plate exchanger and service the boiler as well. In fairness iv'e only had the boiler serviced once in the 12 or so years it was installed and its had one diverter valve, an external expansion vessel as the original failed and the boiler would of needed to be removed to replace and i think an auto air vent which was seized up. After refilling and starting it did sound quite sweet and wasn't stopping and starting. How often should the boiler be stopping and starting? Is it a matter of the central heating getting to a certain temp as defined by the thermostat on the boiler rather than the home thermostat and the boiler stopping and starting as needed to maintain the temperature, as the pump carries on running.
When checking the pipework as i wanted to workout where all manifolds were i noticed that the flow and return 22mm pipes stop in the middle of one of the bedrooms about 6 foot before the first rad, these pipes have two 4 port copper manifolds to 2 bedroom rads and then 2 downstairs rads. The problem rad is on this run and I have a feeling that the 10mm pipe work for this rad is too long from the 22mm Flow + Returns. The pressure when bleeding this rad is quite low compared to all others. Could this be why the rad is last to heat up and not as warm as all the others.
|
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Nov 13, 2019 18:55:16 GMT
Hi Lambo, sounds like its getting better, yes those 10mm pipes having long runs will certainly be the cause of it being sluggish, If its still struggling after the nest flush It might be a good idea to renew those pipes and tee them into the 22mm a bit closer to the boiler, those manifolds were never a good idea, they were for fast installation , grab the money and run type jobs,  |
|
|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 13, 2019 19:22:46 GMT
Ok thanks Tom. I was thinking of extending the 22mm from where it stops and using those 4 x 10mm push fit ports and repipe from closer to the 1st bedroom rad and down to the 2 downstairs rads. But that is going to be a job for the summer I think. What about my question about the boiler? How often should it be cycling on and off?
|
|
|
|
Post by tomplum on Nov 13, 2019 20:23:54 GMT
I have a BaXI 105 and if the heating is switched on from cold, It won't cycle untill the rads are hot, and thats how it should be, when the rads are hot it then cycles depending on your stat setting,
|
|
|
|
Post by lambytone on Nov 13, 2019 21:56:32 GMT
Ok thanks for that info. I was stressing thinking something was wrong. Update on the rad that hadn't been working. It's leaking from the valve. It's an old twin entry valve. I tried to alter the screw that controls the return and it started to leak. Have bunged it up with external leak sealer and I'll ask my plumber friend if he can re pipe a new radiator onto another wall.
|
|
