Post by battle1066 on May 4, 2016 17:24:51 GMT
Evening Members - had a chew on a job today and wonder how the more experienced plumber solves the problem to a DIYer. All pipework and fittings are solvent weld.
Problem snapped 1 1/2 pipe right on the end of the 1 1/2 tee which continues on to the soil pipe via welded boss. Now the branch has the basin waste water at 1 1/4 and the other end of the tee has the shower waste water at 1 1/2 pipe.
Now this is external pipework and has no excess length so the pipe runs are short and no length to flex the pipework into the new Tee. Meaning the branch is a fixed point and one end of the tee is fixed at the shower the other end of the tee could be pushed further into the soil pipe.
Now if the 1 1/2 pipe couplings were slip couplings it would be easier but they come fixed with an internal stop. Now there's no chance of getting the snapped piece of 1 1/2 pipe out of the original tee or is there? So how do trained people do it!
My approach was to ream out the two new 1 1/2 couplings so they could slip up and down the existing pipework removing the need to force any of the existing pipework but meant all the measurement had to be prefabricated then position the couplers to the mid way position and paste with solvent and water test. The result was a tidy visually and water tight job but I lost a day for a job what was priced at fraction of that cost. Now losing money isn't the worry it was the time and making fittings which aren't sold or so I was told so how do you do it?
Problem snapped 1 1/2 pipe right on the end of the 1 1/2 tee which continues on to the soil pipe via welded boss. Now the branch has the basin waste water at 1 1/4 and the other end of the tee has the shower waste water at 1 1/2 pipe.
Now this is external pipework and has no excess length so the pipe runs are short and no length to flex the pipework into the new Tee. Meaning the branch is a fixed point and one end of the tee is fixed at the shower the other end of the tee could be pushed further into the soil pipe.
Now if the 1 1/2 pipe couplings were slip couplings it would be easier but they come fixed with an internal stop. Now there's no chance of getting the snapped piece of 1 1/2 pipe out of the original tee or is there? So how do trained people do it!
My approach was to ream out the two new 1 1/2 couplings so they could slip up and down the existing pipework removing the need to force any of the existing pipework but meant all the measurement had to be prefabricated then position the couplers to the mid way position and paste with solvent and water test. The result was a tidy visually and water tight job but I lost a day for a job what was priced at fraction of that cost. Now losing money isn't the worry it was the time and making fittings which aren't sold or so I was told so how do you do it?
