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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 13, 2020 21:18:52 GMT
Normally at Dafty Towers I've got three zones. HW, CH_main, CH_annex.
I've been thinking that sometimes it would be nice to have the programmer/stat that controls the main zone to also control the annex zone.
I can see that this would be possible _if_ either I can remove the annex zone valve head (its a Honeywell so not sure?) and then just manually turn the valve to always open. Or disconnect the 240v annex valve head from the JB.
Both of those two require competent people to do and I was hoping there might be a way to manually open the annex zone valve without it triggering the pump/boiler to start.
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Post by battle1066 on Dec 13, 2020 21:41:58 GMT
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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 13, 2020 21:49:49 GMT
Thats an interesting idea Battle - thanks. And yep read the comments there makes sense.
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Post by battle1066 on Dec 13, 2020 21:54:58 GMT
Thats an interesting idea Battle - thanks. And yep read the comments there makes sense. In real terms your making the install an easier point of repair for future problems and by disconnecting it when it suits you solving a short term problem.
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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 14, 2020 15:17:25 GMT
Thats an interesting idea Battle - thanks. And yep read the comments there makes sense. In real terms your making the install an easier point of repair for future problems and by disconnecting it when it suits you solving a short term problem. As I did a test and as ever you were right. If you manually push the lever on the MV it stays off but when re-powered the lever moves from the "locked" position back to normal so is no good. I've bought the Regins. Just hope at least one end is safe to leave dangling in the airing cupboard.
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Post by battle1066 on Dec 14, 2020 17:24:47 GMT
In real terms your making the install an easier point of repair for future problems and by disconnecting it when it suits you solving a short term problem. As I did a test and as ever you were right. If you manually push the lever on the MV it stays off but when re-powered the lever moves from the "locked" position back to normal so is no good. I've bought the Regins. Just hope at least one end is safe to leave dangling in the airing cupboard. It will be fine.
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Post by dickpuller on Dec 14, 2020 19:22:06 GMT
Normally at Dafty Towers I've got three zones. HW, CH_main, CH_annex. I've been thinking that sometimes it would be nice to have the programmer/stat that controls the main zone to also control the annex zone. I can see that this would be possible _if_ either I can remove the annex zone valve head (its a Honeywell so not sure?) and then just manually turn the valve to always open. Or disconnect the 240v annex valve head from the JB. Both of those two require competent people to do and I was hoping there might be a way to manually open the annex zone valve without it triggering the pump/boiler to start. I may fall asleep or I may regret reading this......
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Post by dickpuller on Dec 14, 2020 19:25:00 GMT
Do you have the Annex Zone on an independent Programmable Room Thermostat Dafty?
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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 14, 2020 19:43:11 GMT
Do you have the Annex Zone on an independent Programmable Room Thermostat Dafty? Yes and it works just be nice for the other programmer/stat to control things some times.
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Post by dickpuller on Dec 14, 2020 20:27:31 GMT
Do you have the Annex Zone on an independent Programmable Room Thermostat Dafty? Yes and it works just be nice for the other programmer/stat to control things some times. So, if you have time & temperature controls independently on both zones, what’s the issue?
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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 14, 2020 21:09:01 GMT
Yes and it works just be nice for the other programmer/stat to control things some times. So, if you have time & temperature controls independently on both zones, what’s the issue? Occasionally want to put one of the zones into "slave" mode whereby the other zone controls it. I think I figured out how to do it. I set the slave zone controller (annex) to frost mode only so basically off. Then I opened up its MV by moving the lever to manual open. I think thats all I needed. I bought the elgin thing before it dawned on me this might work but no matter its only a few quid and I hate re-wiring MVs that used to pop on a regular basis when they were all Drayton (all Honeywell now).
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