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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 30, 2020 23:10:20 GMT
Had trouble getting it into manual the other day. Access is bad as the lever is behind it and some pipes in the way but can just about get a hand and a mirror there. Every time I pushed the lever across it bit my fingers and would spring right back again. Eventually got it into the manual recess.
Now its in manual it won't come out ! Its stuck open in manual. When there is no power to it, the lever moves a few mm but then settles right back in the manual locking position.
Its nearly new (6-12 months) so surprised at this.
Any ideas anyone ? Please ?
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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 31, 2020 15:19:09 GMT
Managed to get the head off - its the one at the bottom. God know if I'll get it back on again without moving the pipework out of the way. Only good news is the valve turns freely. Need to play a bit with the head to see if it needs replacing... (after hardly any use) Attachments:
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Post by battle1066 on Dec 31, 2020 16:13:09 GMT
Managed to get the head off - its the one at the bottom. God know if I'll get it back on again without moving the pipework out of the way. Only good news is the valve turns freely. Need to play a bit with the head to see if it needs replacing... (after hardly any use) If you got it off you'll get it back on you may need a mirror and a magnetic flexi head. |
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Post by battle1066 on Dec 31, 2020 16:15:30 GMT
If that valve was wired with a Regin plug and socket you could of both electrically and physically tested it without removing the head.
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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 31, 2020 18:17:59 GMT
I've got a regin now and will use it if/when I have to replace a MV. Don't understand how that would help me test the manual operation of the valve itself though?
Its strange. It seems to work ok when off the valve. WHen powered off, you can open it and you hear the motor whirring. Don't see very much activity in the "hole" though? I suppose it only need to turn a slight amount.
It is a bit fiddly getting the lever in and out of manual position. MAybe there is nothing wrong with it. This is what I call myself a Dafty - just creating bloody work for myself when I should be plastering...
I'll put it back on and see what happens.
THanks again for your comments Battle.
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Post by battle1066 on Dec 31, 2020 19:13:19 GMT
I've got a regin now and will use it if/when I have to replace a MV. Don't understand how that would help me test the manual operation of the valve itself though? Its strange. It seems to work ok when off the valve. WHen powered off, you can open it and you hear the motor whirring. Don't see very much activity in the "hole" though? I suppose it only need to turn a slight amount. It is a bit fiddly getting the lever in and out of manual position. MAybe there is nothing wrong with it. This is what I call myself a Dafty - just creating bloody work for myself when I should be plastering... I'll put it back on and see what happens. THanks again for your comments Battle. If you power it electrically and put a screwdriver in the head slot you can feel it work or in some cases it just jumps as the teeth wear etc. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Dec 31, 2020 21:18:46 GMT
I've got a regin now and will use it if/when I have to replace a MV. Don't understand how that would help me test the manual operation of the valve itself though? Its strange. It seems to work ok when off the valve. WHen powered off, you can open it and you hear the motor whirring. Don't see very much activity in the "hole" though? I suppose it only need to turn a slight amount. It is a bit fiddly getting the lever in and out of manual position. MAybe there is nothing wrong with it. This is what I call myself a Dafty - just creating bloody work for myself when I should be plastering... I'll put it back on and see what happens. THanks again for your comments Battle. If you power it electrically and put a screwdriver in the head slot you can feel it work or in some cases it just jumps as the teeth wear etc. Right I think I know what is going on. After it being left in manual for a couple of weeks the lever wants to stay there. So if you push it out to get it to close it wants to spring back into the manual recess. I've now guided it back to closed and then open/closed a few times. Seems ok I hope. Maybe its just not designed to stay in manual/open for long periods of time? |
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 1, 2021 8:20:09 GMT
Always fit Honeywell, to quote my good friend Benjamin Franklin;
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten!
Its a Spring return valve Dafty, it naturally wants to close all the time.
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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 1, 2021 16:02:34 GMT
Always fit Honeywell, to quote my good friend Benjamin Franklin; The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten! Its a Spring return valve Dafty, it naturally wants to close all the time. Yep I replaced all the Draytons. Problem with the spring return is that it can return in 2 ways: back to closed or back to the recess which is used for manual open. |
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 1, 2021 18:32:10 GMT
Always fit Honeywell, to quote my good friend Benjamin Franklin; The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten! Its a Spring return valve Dafty, it naturally wants to close all the time. Yep I replaced all the Draytons. Problem with the spring return is that it can return in 2 ways: back to closed or back to the recess which is used for manual open. With no power to the zone valve, there should be a fairly strong resistance to open the valve & hook the lever to keep the valve open. if it’s floppy, there’s a problem with the lever or the cogs the lever runs on. Is the synchronised motor fucked? From memory, test it & you should get about 2000Ohms resistance. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Jan 1, 2021 18:57:15 GMT
Yep I replaced all the Draytons. Problem with the spring return is that it can return in 2 ways: back to closed or back to the recess which is used for manual open. With no power to the zone valve, there should be a fairly strong resistance to open the valve & hook the lever to keep the valve open. if it’s floppy, there’s a problem with the lever or the cogs the lever runs on. Is the synchronised motor fucked? From memory, test it & you should get about 2000Ohms resistance. Cheers for the help Dick I just think I explained the problem badly. "Hook" is a better word. So without power, there is good strong physical resistance and you can lock it in the hook open or let it glide back closed. Problem is sometimes it wants to go into the hook instead of gliding back. |
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Post by dickpuller on Jan 1, 2021 19:01:49 GMT
When the zone valve is powered up(open) the lever will swing back & forward freely👍
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