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Post by DIYDafty on Apr 9, 2023 19:35:13 GMT
Hello All So what started as a tiny job to seal a dripping TRV now seems to have broken the pump. Its 40 years old I think and last 6 months was a bit louder so I did buy a new pump already to replace it with. I've filled up this system after draining down many times before. It was going ok, pump speed on slow 1, the feed pipe getting hot and I could here the usual gurgling and wooshing sounds plus the pump making loud noises as (I think) pockets of air going through it. But then it just died. It makes a very quiet humming sound when energised but that's it. I took the bleed screw out of the pump thinking I might tempoirarily be able to free the impellor but all I can see is like a metal knob (for want of a better description). Couldn't get hold it or get a screwdriver around it. Feel free to laugh at the using of the 28mm compression coupler and pfte tape around the threads - did that about 10 years ago when I was even more daft than now! So does it sounds like the pump has gone? Any other thoughts/tips/tricks/anything ? Gonna start work around lunchtime tomorrow and no doubt I'll spend 3 hours undoing the first nut.....  Attachments:
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Post by DIYDafty on Apr 9, 2023 21:03:27 GMT
Forgot to say the left hand side of the pump as you look at it in the pics, was very hot. Hotter than the water at that point I think.
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Post by tomplum on Apr 9, 2023 21:12:56 GMT
w you have a air lock, you've took the centre of the pump out and, there's no water coming out, the centre should be spinning so you may have burned out the pump,
1. is there water in the header tank ?
2. If there is undo that compression joint and water should piss out,it it does not , its a blockage or air lock
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Post by DIYDafty on Apr 9, 2023 21:21:13 GMT
Waters coming out (a strong trickle if I can call it that) from the bleed valve on the pump.
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Post by battle1066 on Apr 10, 2023 9:35:39 GMT
If the F&E tank has water in and the pump bled is giving that trickle I would be replacing the pump.
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Post by tomplum on Apr 10, 2023 10:09:58 GMT
If thAT pump spindle is not spinning then, Yes replace the pump, I would get a new pump and valves too, there's a good chance those big nuts on the pump are ceased solid and will not undo so drain off and change the lot,
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Post by dickpuller on Apr 10, 2023 10:14:12 GMT
With 240vac to the Circulation Pump & the Bleed Screw removed, put a screwdriver in & check if the Impeller is turning.
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Post by DIYDafty on Apr 10, 2023 12:37:33 GMT
Touch wood going well so far (lower nut on the lower pump valve was very hard for me to get off - used two big stilsons in the end). Pics if and when I've finished....
How to minimize stress on the new pump when I fill up? From experience of my system, it takes a good 45 minutes to purge all the air out and you can here the pump wailing. This new WIlo has an "air purge" function but no idea what it does or whether to use it?
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Post by DIYDafty on Apr 10, 2023 12:37:53 GMT
And thanks for the helpful comments btw.
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Post by crowsfoot on Apr 10, 2023 13:37:26 GMT
Being new, the new pump will have a lot more power in it than the old one had this ought be enough to shift any air locks almost instantly.  NB If a pump is on it's last legs draining down and refilling a system is often enough to finish it completely off! |
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Post by dickpuller on Apr 10, 2023 14:45:38 GMT
Wilo(pronounced) Vilo, is the best ERP Circulation Pumps on the market. The Grunny ones are crap now!
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Post by DIYDafty on Apr 10, 2023 21:15:16 GMT
Managed to finish and thanks to all for your help. That 28mm coupler turned out to be handy as just need to cut a small piece of 28mm to size and slot in with some paste. I know some would say changing a pump is dead easy and maybe it is to a timed served plumber like on this site but I always respect plumbing work. One minute you're just nipping up a rad valve and the next you're well out of your depth soldering some 28mm pipe with a slow drip and the family freezing cold and wanting a shower.... Attachments:
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Post by crowsfoot on Apr 11, 2023 7:45:07 GMT
Nice job DD, very professional.
Like the new valves they're much better than the screwdriver slotted ones.
It looks like you've gone for one of those new generation of self regulating pumps for which I've never (quite possibly now shall ever) fitted.
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Post by dickpuller on Apr 11, 2023 9:14:08 GMT
Nice job DD, very professional. Like the new valves they're much better than the screwdriver slotted ones. It looks like you've gone for one of those new generation of self regulating pumps for which I've never (quite possibly now shall ever) fitted. The ERP(this is now irrelevant since Brexit) have internal PCBs for the PWM(pulse wave modulation). Also a sensor to monitor Flow Rate through the Circulation Pump. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Apr 11, 2023 12:17:29 GMT
Nice job DD, very professional. Like the new valves they're much better than the screwdriver slotted ones. It looks like you've gone for one of those new generation of self regulating pumps for which I've never (quite possibly now shall ever) fitted. Thanks CF ! Very pleased so far as its virtually silent. As you both say it knows what the flow rate is so I think can be put in a mode where it tries to keep the same flow rate regardless of how many rads/HW are open. Is that what it does in that modulating mode? I dunno I've left it on 1 or 2 for now. The "venting" function without a vent, is actually quite good on my system - I didn't know but it just sends pulses of very high pump pressure over a 10 minute period to release air pockets. Don't know how it knows there is air in the system but it will show a dedicated error if it thinks there is air. |
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