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Post by rocketmanbkk on Mar 15, 2024 11:22:16 GMT
Hello
I’ve taken a bit of the back panel off & when I tap it then it dings. So I’m 99% it’s old cast iron.
I’m going to cut it off at just after the 2nd collar & either fit a DP1 connector & then go to plastic or fir a fernco rubber coupler & go to plastic. Hopefully the DP1 will fit in the pipe & seal as I’ve already got one!
I can’t fit the toilet today as planned as after getting everything out there’s no toilet pan fixing kit!!! Ive ordered a Fischer kit.
Everything is starting to move now so hopefully on my next days off I can fit the toilet & silicone everywhere & finish the job.
Cheers all
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Post by crowsfoot on Mar 15, 2024 15:17:39 GMT
I agree with you rocky it's C.I., if it was lead it would have made a dull sound when you tapped it. You'll need a angle grinder to get through the cast iron mind you. One other option would be to try and get it out of the collar by drilling holes into the joint itself (lead caulked) and scraping the old lead out with a screwdriver (warming it up with a blow lamp will also help).
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Mar 15, 2024 15:57:40 GMT
I agree with you rocky it's C.I., if it was lead it would have made a dull sound when you tapped it. You'll need a angle grinder to get through the cast iron mind you. One other option would be to try and get it out of the collar by drilling holes into the joint itself (lead caulked) and scraping the old lead out with a screwdriver (warming it up with a blow lamp will also help). Cheers. I’m just going to cut it off I think. I’ve got a grinder so hopefully straight through.
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Post by tomplum on Mar 16, 2024 14:39:15 GMT
Hi rockey, In that tight space a grinder is going to be dangerous and tricky, you will not be able to do a staight one cut because of the diameter of the pipe, You'd need a grinder with a wheel 9 inches and two hands to keep it steady, I'd use a lump hammer, wear gogles and gloves and smash to pieces,
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Post by dickpuller on Mar 16, 2024 16:48:47 GMT
I agree with you rocky it's C.I., if it was lead it would have made a dull sound when you tapped it. You'll need a angle grinder to get through the cast iron mind you. One other option would be to try and get it out of the collar by drilling holes into the joint itself (lead caulked) and scraping the old lead out with a screwdriver (warming it up with a blow lamp will also help). I’m with CF, melt the Lead in the CI joint, much easier & less dangerous than a Grinder in our that confined space. As CF has said, boring the Lead will greatly reduce what you need to melt.
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Mar 16, 2024 22:29:28 GMT
I agree with you rocky it's C.I., if it was lead it would have made a dull sound when you tapped it. You'll need a angle grinder to get through the cast iron mind you. One other option would be to try and get it out of the collar by drilling holes into the joint itself (lead caulked) and scraping the old lead out with a screwdriver (warming it up with a blow lamp will also help). I’m with CF, melt the Lead in the CI joint, much easier & less dangerous than a Grinder in our that confined space. As CF has said, boring the Lead will greatly reduce what you need to melt. So you think if I heat up the collar or joint just before it I’ll then be able to twist/pull the pipe out?
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Mar 17, 2024 9:10:33 GMT
Hi rockey, In that tight space a grinder is going to be dangerous and tricky, you will not be able to do a staight one cut because of the diameter of the pipe, You'd need a grinder with a wheel 9 inches and two hands to keep it steady, I'd use a lump hammer, wear gogles and gloves and smash to pieces, Hi rockey, In that tight space a grinder is going to be dangerous and tricky, you will not be able to do a staight one cut because of the diameter of the pipe, You'd need a grinder with a wheel 9 inches and two hands to keep it steady, I'd use a lump hammer, wear gogles and gloves and smash to pieces, I’m not sure I want to smash it out as if it crack the pipe further down I’ll be it big trouble. The other option I have it to cut the first collar off at the back of the toilet & keep the cast pipe & hope that the DC1 fits in. Oh, one thing I’ve actually learned about the DC1 is the the rubber fins sit on plastic pipe. I actually thought the fins were like those in a pan connector & had no pipe inside!!! Cutting is my preferred way to go Once the old toilet is out & the back panel is off I think I’ll have room. Failing the cutting I’ll smash the pipe & then grind the edge flat.
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Mar 17, 2024 9:13:23 GMT
Furthermore, I saw a video that I can no longer find where a plumber put the DC1 I to the large collar & it was flush with the end & just needed a little 4” pipe inserted to take the pan connector fins.
Unfortunately for me, I don’t think my toilet rear has a wide enough gap to take the old collar. I’ll try before cutting as this method could save a lot of work.
I’ll try to do a video.
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Post by dickpuller on Mar 17, 2024 10:24:52 GMT
I’m with CF, melt the Lead in the CI joint, much easier & less dangerous than a Grinder in our that confined space. As CF has said, boring the Lead will greatly reduce what you need to melt. So you think if I heat up the collar or joint just before it I’ll then be able to twist/pull the pipe out? Just get your Blow Lamp on the Lead of the Joint & melt the Lead. Don’t FFS heat the whole joint😂😂😂 MAP Gas will be hotter. But don’t burn the fucking house down either, keep an extinguisher to hand & check the whole working area a few times after you’re finished👍👍
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Post by crowsfoot on Mar 17, 2024 21:53:04 GMT
Once you get some of the lead out of the joint you should be able to wobble it loose (it will be hard going at first mind you).
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Mar 18, 2024 11:40:08 GMT
Cheers. I hope to sort it out on Thursday when I’m off again.
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Post by tomplum on Mar 18, 2024 15:37:21 GMT
Rocky there are various sizes to the inside dia of cast iron but McCalpine make adaptors to fit whatever it is, I've met them at at 3 inch, 3 and a half inches and if you're unluck I believe there are 2 and a half inch internal dia but I've never met one of those, I think they where for the venting pipe when soil pipes had twin pipes, one for the water and one for venting, mostly on industrial and commecial buildings,
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Post by dickpuller on Mar 18, 2024 18:04:30 GMT
Rocky there are various sizes to the inside dia of cast iron but McCalpine make adaptors to fit whatever it is, I've met them at at 3 inch, 3 and a half inches and if you're unluck I believe there are 2 and a half inch internal dia but I've never met one of those, I think they where for the venting pipe when soil pipes had twin pipes, one for the water and one for venting, mostly on industrial and commecial buildings, 3 1/2” was the most common CI Soil Pipe used here in Jockoland on 2 Pipe Soil & Waste above ground drainage systems. The Waste stacks could be 2 1/2 or 3” 4” was also used, but not so common. McAlpine, a famous Scottish plastics manufacturers. High quality products, with factories doted around Glasgow. The one nearest to me makes Flexi Pan Connectors. I did Maintenance Work in the Flexi Pan Connector factory & they’re a great company to work for. They look after their Staff & Contractors. They started life making Lead Traps & Bends etc. Which, like today, exporting their goods all over the world. Nearly as famous as Tunnocks or Irn Bru!!
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Mar 18, 2024 21:17:08 GMT
The pipe looks quite large so hopefully the DC1 will fit. Failing that it’ll need a fernco coupler & then go to plastic: I’d prefer the DC1 route as I’ve got one on the garage but if it doesn’t fit then it’ll be a trip out on Thursday.
I’ll report back with the outcome.
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Post by tomplum on Mar 18, 2024 21:42:01 GMT
Apologies to you and McAlpine for the incorrect spelling Dick, I hope they can forgive me, Another Glasgow firm I use now retired is, crossmyloofbrewers, I make home brew and Steve at crossmyloof has provided me with many tips and I always buy my hops from them,,
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