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Post by rocketmanbkk on Feb 11, 2018 9:23:56 GMT
Shall we discuss them?
Rct
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2018 10:08:51 GMT
Shall we discuss them? Rct Ok rocky, fire away mate.
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Feb 11, 2018 10:13:56 GMT
Well, when changing the full valve on a 3 port drain system from a rad for example. No problems with that. BUT what is stopping the water in the cylinder gushing out when you remove it?
Or is it just the water in the coil that needs removing?
Thinking about it now, as the waters don’t mix (cylinder & coil) it’s not necessary to drain cylinder?
Also, when doing a 2 port, drain down again in the same way & change the faulty valve either water or heat or both?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2018 10:24:01 GMT
The water in the cylinder is separate rocky so when you drain down the heating the coil of water is empty too the domestic hot water stays in the tank, you can bung it I always go for that option
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Feb 11, 2018 10:28:52 GMT
Ok, yes bung.
I was overthinking where the cylinder water was going but then it came clear!
Happy Sunday!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2018 11:06:21 GMT
Ok, yes bung. I was overthinking where the cylinder water was going but then it came clear! Happy Sunday! Have a good Sunday mate
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Post by endfeed on Feb 11, 2018 12:17:22 GMT
What's your method for draining,to do just a port valve?p.b😎
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2018 12:28:42 GMT
What's your method for draining,to do just a port valve?p.b😎 If it's a vented system I always change them on bungs, if it's a sealed system I just dump the pressure out work fast and be well PREPARED !!! If you are working upstairs it's not so bad but down stairs you can have alot more coming at you I try and avoid draining down unless it's absolutely necessary as that's where your time is lost, refilling and chasing out airlocks Work smarter not harder
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Post by tomplum on Feb 11, 2018 12:29:40 GMT
One thing to watch out for when changing port valves, whether 2 or 3 ports is,, the nuts are not all the same, so change the nuts and cones too, I've seen plumbers snatch a valve of thinking the nuts will be the same, and they are not always so, Thats one to bear in mind,
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Post by tomplum on Feb 11, 2018 12:35:28 GMT
Good topic this Rocky, I'll move it to the plumbing board, I'm sure it will help many people more there,
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Post by endfeed on Feb 11, 2018 13:03:35 GMT
What's your method for draining,to do just a port valve?p.b😎 If it's a vented system I always change them on bungs, if it's a sealed system I just dump the pressure out work fast and be well PREPARED !!! If you are working upstairs it's not so bad but down stairs you can have alot more coming at you I try and avoid draining down unless it's absolutely necessary as that's where your time is lost, refilling and chasing out airlocks Work smarter not harder do you bungs the f&e to do port valves?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2018 13:47:11 GMT
Yes endfeed you bung the F&E tank to do port valves and like Tom said always change the compression nuts, you will also find if you have an olive puller it won't work on the Honeywell valve nuts as they are a different thread so you can either twat them off or use a splitter.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2018 13:53:21 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2018 14:08:54 GMT
This is how I do it. Turn power off to heating...Bung tank...pull vacuum...open wiring centre and test power is out...cut old port valve wires at centre leaving a small tail of wire ( that's your quick guidance for wiring new one in)... Crack nuts on old valve and remove...have a spare bung ready for residual water present...remove old nuts and olives...whack new one on...wire in new one following the guidance of the tails you left...pull bungs...vent coil...check for leaks...turn on power and test. A friend of mine doesn't open the wiring centre he uses a five way dismountable connector block that you can pull apart, we all work different.
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Post by endfeed on Feb 11, 2018 14:11:01 GMT
was it dribbling abit ,see the bung came in handy at compression fitting.olive splitter on order!!!!!
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