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Post by jimmy1 on Oct 9, 2020 10:19:30 GMT
Not a chippy bro, maybe one of the others will advise on that. Also if using G clamps like that guy put a bit of spare wood under them to save marking.
Keep up the good work and lots of pics. jimmy
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 15, 2020 21:00:59 GMT
Another milestone today - so time for an update.
Floor levelled and tiled over. Coving in and painted and new 127mm hole drilled for the ducting.
The main lesson I've learned is self-levelling doesn't really level the floor. Unless you use bags and bags of it a 3mm standard skim just makes it smooth - not that level so I still had trouble with the tiles. Thank God I shyed away from 600mmx600mm tiles and also a 2mm grout gap - I went for 3mm. If It was doing it again, I'd use a deeper trowel than the standard floor trowel of 10mm square notched (or 20 round). I'd want to use at least 50% more cement. So coverage on each tile was poor and lippage was hard to get rid of. I'd probably not be over the moon if I paid a tiler for that job but its just about good enough.
Latest regs seem to want 6 inch hole for ventillation but that doesn't apply for upgrades to an existing. No way do I want/need a hole that size? Anyway as I found out the standard 127mm core drill isn't really big enough for 5 inch pipe. Whats the point of that??? Being a pissed off dafty when I realised that (_after_ I'd drilled the hole obviously...) I got a bit of timber flush to one end and whacked it through with a hammer. Couldn't believe I got it through without it breaking! Why isn't the standard 127mm core say 132mm ?
So onwards and upwards and next is to start installing the cabinets which arrived last week. As you can see theres some pipework to do (which I smashed up dropping an old worktop on it) but I'm still not 100% on the order of some cabinets (there's leeway to swap the order of the dishwasher and another cabinet). So I'll sort of play it by ear - getting the corner cabinet in first and then when I know exactly what I'm gonna do I'll pipe up the 15mm copper which is just hot/cold feed and a tee to an outside tap.
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 15, 2020 21:02:02 GMT
And the tiles....
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Post by battle1066 on Oct 15, 2020 21:07:18 GMT
I like your style Dafty and for my money you get far more right than you get wrong! |
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Post by tomplum on Oct 15, 2020 22:09:17 GMT
Its looking good dafty, I almost wish I could be there, Its very satisfying to see this project coming along and, It is looking like very professional and I've got to agree with Tappy that, you are pulling our chain but hey, keep on, The only thing I would do different is , With those floor tiles, I would have 'bonded' like brickwork rather than have them all ' soldiered ', that's not a criticism, Its just a preference of mine, good work Dafty,,  |
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Oct 16, 2020 6:42:19 GMT
It’s coming to. Looking good,
I’m interested to know about the kitchen units & how you’ll fit them & keep them level plus security the walls.
Cheers
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Post by crowsfoot on Oct 16, 2020 7:03:28 GMT
Looking good DD, that picture of the new screed took me back to quite a few years ago when I was working on moderisations, keep em' coming DD  Getting the difficult bit done first is indeed the thinking of a true professional. A dafty diyer will always do the easy bit first for none other than that reason. |
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Post by woodbine66 on Oct 17, 2020 8:43:17 GMT
Thanks for the update. Job's a good 'un!
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 18, 2020 15:15:23 GMT
Drainage - what would you do ?
Between the cardboard box and the base unit is where the sink unit will go. The dishwasher is now going next door on the left where the cardboard box is.
I'm not that bothered about having the dishwasher drain into the sink trap but maybe a nice to have if it doesn't. THe problem is there is only exactly 42mm for the service void. Maybe its enough to run a standpipe through to the dishwasher next door? Writing this has forced me to think about it and maybe there if I scrape some of the plaster off the wall....
In terms of joining to the pipe it looks to me like I'll have to cut into the pipe (or pipes if Im doing it separately drained) outside ? Inside it just looks like all fittings.
Last question is when I was butchering the pipe as part of the old kitchen removal, when I try to cut it with my rothenberger pipe cutters it just shattered. Would it be prudent to saw it or maybe first try the rothenbergers "scissors" and if shatters then trim with saw ? Oh and I guess you'd keep the T with the rodding eye outside? (I mean replace with new but same idea)
Thanks for reading !
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Oct 18, 2020 16:02:05 GMT
Drainage - what would you do ? Between the cardboard box and the base unit is where the sink unit will go. The dishwasher is now going next door on the left where the cardboard box is. I'm not that bothered about having the dishwasher drain into the sink trap but maybe a nice to have if it doesn't. THe problem is there is only exactly 42mm for the service void. Maybe its enough to run a standpipe through to the dishwasher next door? Writing this has forced me to think about it and maybe there if I scrape some of the plaster off the wall.... In terms of joining to the pipe it looks to me like I'll have to cut into the pipe (or pipes if Im doing it separately drained) outside ? Inside it just looks like all fittings. Last question is when I was butchering the pipe as part of the old kitchen removal, when I try to cut it with my rothenberger pipe cutters it just shattered. Would it be prudent to saw it or maybe first try the rothenbergers "scissors" and if shatters then trim with saw ? Oh and I guess you'd keep the T with the rodding eye outside? (I mean replace with new but same idea) Thanks for reading ! Are you thinking about bringing the base units forward so the pipe will sit behind? |
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 18, 2020 16:14:00 GMT
Drainage - what would you do ? Between the cardboard box and the base unit is where the sink unit will go. The dishwasher is now going next door on the left where the cardboard box is. I'm not that bothered about having the dishwasher drain into the sink trap but maybe a nice to have if it doesn't. THe problem is there is only exactly 42mm for the service void. Maybe its enough to run a standpipe through to the dishwasher next door? Writing this has forced me to think about it and maybe there if I scrape some of the plaster off the wall.... In terms of joining to the pipe it looks to me like I'll have to cut into the pipe (or pipes if Im doing it separately drained) outside ? Inside it just looks like all fittings. Last question is when I was butchering the pipe as part of the old kitchen removal, when I try to cut it with my rothenberger pipe cutters it just shattered. Would it be prudent to saw it or maybe first try the rothenbergers "scissors" and if shatters then trim with saw ? Oh and I guess you'd keep the T with the rodding eye outside? (I mean replace with new but same idea) Thanks for reading ! Are you thinking about bringing the base units forward so the pipe will sit behind? I want the pipe to sit behind but without bringing the base units forward. So thinking about cutting a 10mm recess in the wall because there's already 40mm behind the cabinet. OR just leave the main pipe behind the sink and connect my dishwasher hose into the sink trap. |
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Post by crowsfoot on Oct 18, 2020 19:22:35 GMT
I'd think about repacing those waste pipes DD with a single push fit waste pipe of the same make and connect up the washer with a sink washer trap.
It's the modern thing to do.
Keep wastes as short as possible with as few bends as possible is very old advice and the way I see it, even if you have to knock another hole through the wall for a straight exit of the new waste pipe it will be worth it.
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 18, 2020 20:39:41 GMT
I'd think about repacing those waste pipes DD with a single push fit waste pipe of the same make and connect up the washer with a sink washer trap.It's the modern thing to do. Keep wastes as short as possible with as few bends as possible is very old advice and the way I see it, even if you have to knock another hole through the wall for a straight exit of the new waste pipe it will be worth it. Right that's what I'll do ! If the dishwasher was not the next one on the left but further away, would you use an extension hose? Its just the dishwaser is freestanding so will break up the run of units if it sits in the middle next to the sink. Maybe it wouldn't look so bad - need to think about it.... Also the existing pipe is decades old so don't know what it is. I'm guessing it was solvent weld just looking at it so maybe I can connect up that way? |
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Post by crowsfoot on Oct 19, 2020 6:20:09 GMT
An extension to the hose would be the way to go if you wanted to position the washer at the end of the kitchen units run for me. It certainly would give a more streamlinned appearance to the kitchen units if you did this. Keep the extension hose up at high level right through the units until it drops down at the trap if you do this. Those waste pipes are very old and possibly obsolite sized solvent weld waste pipes you could get a universal connector onto it, however, I wouldn't fuck about with em'. Get em' out of the way and cement up the hole that they went through then cut a new hole inline where the new sink waste trap exit pipe goes is my advice. I'm thinking that you've left them in just to wind us up  ! |
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Oct 19, 2020 6:49:40 GMT
What are the pitfalls of bringing the unit is forward 5/10mm to allow the waste pipe to sit behind them?
Is it because of the width of the worktop?
Cheers all
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!