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Post by tomplum on Oct 29, 2019 21:59:35 GMT
I can't help myself being tight, I used to buy cheap trainers for the kids when they were young and use a felt tip to write Rebok or Nike on the side, I got away with that till was about 10, then I got sussed,,  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2019 22:02:46 GMT
I can't help myself being tight, I used to buy cheap trainers for the kids when they were young and use a felt tip to write Rebok or Nike on the side, I got away with that till was about 10, then I got sussed,,  |
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Post by cylinderfella on Oct 29, 2019 22:14:57 GMT
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Post by tomplum on Oct 29, 2019 22:19:20 GMT
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Post by tomplum on Oct 29, 2019 22:19:52 GMT
I've not lost my touch  |
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Post by cylinderfella on Oct 29, 2019 22:19:58 GMT
Getting back on topic DD, did you decide what the solution to the overhang to avoid the cut would be?
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aj
head of marketing and bargains 
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Post by aj on Oct 29, 2019 22:39:56 GMT
tom where id you buy the worktops from?
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 30, 2019 0:10:31 GMT
Getting back on topic DD, did you decide what the solution to the overhang to avoid the cut would be? Cheers for asking Cynders. I asked the DIY kitchens company where I'm getting the cupboards from and they said exactly this (quote) : "The solid wood worktops are not finished off and just needs to be trimmed down and your edge finished to requirement." I'm actually though planning to buy the worktop from a different company - www.worktop-express.co.uk. They say on their website that they can do masons mitre for laminate and butt joint prep for solid wood as well as any cut you want. So I'm currently thinking/wondering how much should I get them to do. As Rocky hints at, a rip cut is probably out of the question for me to do on site (although wouldn't be visible since at the back) but surely I'm not gonna pay the company to drill out tap holes etc? I dunno, I'm mulling this over - probably too much (along the lines of well if they do the cuts I've got to get the measurements bang on beforehand but if I do any cuts, I'm bound to fk them up.....) !! I'll report back after I've trashed a couple of beautiful walnut worktops....  |
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Post by tomplum on Oct 30, 2019 8:26:24 GMT
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Post by fatflint on Oct 30, 2019 20:40:57 GMT
Getting back on topic DD, did you decide what the solution to the overhang to avoid the cut would be? Cheers for asking Cynders. I asked the DIY kitchens company where I'm getting the cupboards from and they said exactly this (quote) : "The solid wood worktops are not finished off and just needs to be trimmed down and your edge finished to requirement." I'm actually though planning to buy the worktop from a different company - www.worktop-express.co.uk. They say on their website that they can do masons mitre for laminate and butt joint prep for solid wood as well as any cut you want. So I'm currently thinking/wondering how much should I get them to do. As Rocky hints at, a rip cut is probably out of the question for me to do on site (although wouldn't be visible since at the back) but surely I'm not gonna pay the company to drill out tap holes etc? I dunno, I'm mulling this over - probably too much (along the lines of well if they do the cuts I've got to get the measurements bang on beforehand but if I do any cuts, I'm bound to fk them up.....) !! I'll report back after I've trashed a couple of beautiful walnut worktops....  is it a good idea getting them to cut them for you. if your walls arnt perfectly square which there prob not then getting them to put a masons mitre in before hand could cause extra bother. |
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Post by endfeed on Oct 30, 2019 20:48:43 GMT
Getting back on topic DD, did you decide what the solution to the overhang to avoid the cut would be? Cheers for asking Cynders. I asked the DIY kitchens company where I'm getting the cupboards from and they said exactly this (quote) : "The solid wood worktops are not finished off and just needs to be trimmed down and your edge finished to requirement." I'm actually though planning to buy the worktop from a different company - www.worktop-express.co.uk. They say on their website that they can do masons mitre for laminate and butt joint prep for solid wood as well as any cut you want. So I'm currently thinking/wondering how much should I get them to do. As Rocky hints at, a rip cut is probably out of the question for me to do on site (although wouldn't be visible since at the back) but surely I'm not gonna pay the company to drill out tap holes etc? I dunno, I'm mulling this over - probably too much (along the lines of well if they do the cuts I've got to get the measurements bang on beforehand but if I do any cuts, I'm bound to fk them up.....) !! I'll report back after I've trashed a couple of beautiful walnut worktops.... hi d.d, are you tiling after worktops go in? Thinking outside the box, could you chop enough plaster out the wall to sink the worktop back a bit? Might be able to get 20mm or so out of it👍 |
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ian
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Post by ian on Oct 31, 2019 15:46:25 GMT
Getting back on topic DD, did you decide what the solution to the overhang to avoid the cut would be? Cheers for asking Cynders. I asked the DIY kitchens company where I'm getting the cupboards from and they said exactly this (quote) : "The solid wood worktops are not finished off and just needs to be trimmed down and your edge finished to requirement." I'm actually though planning to buy the worktop from a different company - www.worktop-express.co.uk. They say on their website that they can do masons mitre for laminate and butt joint prep for solid wood as well as any cut you want. So I'm currently thinking/wondering how much should I get them to do. As Rocky hints at, a rip cut is probably out of the question for me to do on site (although wouldn't be visible since at the back) but surely I'm not gonna pay the company to drill out tap holes etc? I dunno, I'm mulling this over - probably too much (along the lines of well if they do the cuts I've got to get the measurements bang on beforehand but if I do any cuts, I'm bound to fk them up.....) !! I'll report back after I've trashed a couple of beautiful walnut worktops.... You are forgetting to add the thickness of your door to the depth of the cabinet. There is also allowance for scribing to the wall on a 620 worktop. Scribing to the wall is easy enough to do with a jigsaw but you are probably better off paying a joiner to do it and a proper butt joint on site. Forget getting the supplier to pre cut it unless they come out and measure it all first. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 31, 2019 16:15:17 GMT
Cheers for asking Cynders. I asked the DIY kitchens company where I'm getting the cupboards from and they said exactly this (quote) : "The solid wood worktops are not finished off and just needs to be trimmed down and your edge finished to requirement." I'm actually though planning to buy the worktop from a different company - www.worktop-express.co.uk. They say on their website that they can do masons mitre for laminate and butt joint prep for solid wood as well as any cut you want. So I'm currently thinking/wondering how much should I get them to do. As Rocky hints at, a rip cut is probably out of the question for me to do on site (although wouldn't be visible since at the back) but surely I'm not gonna pay the company to drill out tap holes etc? I dunno, I'm mulling this over - probably too much (along the lines of well if they do the cuts I've got to get the measurements bang on beforehand but if I do any cuts, I'm bound to fk them up.....) !! I'll report back after I've trashed a couple of beautiful walnut worktops.... You are forgetting to add the thickness of your door to the depth of the cabinet. There is also allowance for scribing to the wall on a 620 worktop. Scribing to the wall is easy enough to do with a jigsaw but you are probably better off paying a joiner to do it and a proper butt joint on site. Forget getting the supplier to pre cut it unless they come out and measure it all first. Cheers for reply Ian but so far I've done everything myself including (dare I say it!) plastering an artex ceiling (on that job I'm sure you'd do it 10x times better but now painted it looks no worse than any other old ceiling in the house so good enough.) Joiner rightly would cost almost as much as the worktop plus I've got to consider all the tools I've got. I did factor in the door (620mm - 560mm - 22mm (door) is about 40mm overhang) but wasn't planning to scribe worktop to the wall as 0.5-1.0mm gap would be hidden by upstand wouldn't it ? The L shape only extends 1.5M in one direction so was hoping a pre-prepared 90 degree butt joint would be good enough leaving me to tighten them togther on site? MAybe not ..... (!) |
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ian
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Post by ian on Oct 31, 2019 16:38:06 GMT
You are forgetting to add the thickness of your door to the depth of the cabinet. There is also allowance for scribing to the wall on a 620 worktop. Scribing to the wall is easy enough to do with a jigsaw but you are probably better off paying a joiner to do it and a proper butt joint on site. Forget getting the supplier to pre cut it unless they come out and measure it all first. Cheers for reply Ian but so far I've done everything myself including (dare I say it!) plastering an artex ceiling (on that job I'm sure you'd do it 10x times better but now painted it looks no worse than any other old ceiling in the house so good enough.) Joiner rightly would cost almost as much as the worktop plus I've got to consider all the tools I've got. I did factor in the door (620mm - 560mm - 22mm (door) is about 40mm overhang) but wasn't planning to scribe worktop to the wall as 0.5-1.0mm gap would be hidden by upstand wouldn't it ? The L shape only extends 1.5M in one direction so was hoping a pre-prepared 90 degree butt joint would be good enough leaving me to tighten them togther on site? MAybe not ..... (!) are your walls at 90 degrees and perfectly flat though? Also where are you buying 560mm units from? |
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 31, 2019 17:04:58 GMT
www.diy-kitchens.comWhere else would a diy dafty go? Good point about the walls. I'm hoping that just 1.5M along one side is short. They're fairly flat but admitedly I haven't checked with a large square. You reckon its too risky?
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