ian
chief spread 
Posts: 294
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Post by ian on Oct 31, 2019 17:27:25 GMT
www.diy-kitchens.comWhere else would a diy dafty go?  Good point about the walls. I'm hoping that just 1.5M along one side is short. They're fairly flat but admitedly I haven't checked with a large square. You reckon its too risky? You will need more than a large square. 1 degree equals a 60:1 deviation. So, 1.5m = 60 inches and over your worktop length equals 1 inch out of place. Take into account that your square should be 90 but slop on its joins give some variation, as does manfacturing tolerances and wall deviation. You dont measure the angle when cuttingva worktop. You cut the top oversize and lay them in place on top of each other and mark it with a pencil line and make your cut to suit. Obviously this wont happen if you have the supplier cut it. You can do this youself and take it to a woodyard/shop that will do the actual cut for you. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Oct 31, 2019 17:39:30 GMT
www.diy-kitchens.comWhere else would a diy dafty go? Good point about the walls. I'm hoping that just 1.5M along one side is short. They're fairly flat but admitedly I haven't checked with a large square. You reckon its too risky? You will need more than a large square. 1 degree equals a 60:1 deviation. So, 1.5m = 60 inches and over your worktop length equals 1 inch out of place. Take into account that your square should be 90 but slop on its joins give some variation, as does manfacturing tolerances and wall deviation. You dont measure the angle when cuttingva worktop. You cut the top oversize and lay them in place on top of each other and mark it with a pencil line and make your cut to suit. Obviously this wont happen if you have the supplier cut it. You can do this youself and take it to a woodyard/shop that will do the actual cut for you. That's a brilliant piece of advice that I hadn't thought through. I've still got a fair bit of time before ordering so will give it more thought. I don't understand how this company can offer this if their customers are all likely to complain. I suppose maybe if the upstands are 50mm, that would cover anything? www.worktop-express.co.uk/information_guides/butt-joints-a-worktop-express-nutshell-guide/ |
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Oct 31, 2019 17:54:18 GMT
You will need more than a large square. 1 degree equals a 60:1 deviation. So, 1.5m = 60 inches and over your worktop length equals 1 inch out of place. Take into account that your square should be 90 but slop on its joins give some variation, as does manfacturing tolerances and wall deviation. You dont measure the angle when cuttingva worktop. You cut the top oversize and lay them in place on top of each other and mark it with a pencil line and make your cut to suit. Obviously this wont happen if you have the supplier cut it. You can do this youself and take it to a woodyard/shop that will do the actual cut for you. That's a brilliant piece of advice that I hadn't thought through. I've still got a fair bit of time before ordering so will give it more thought. I don't understand how this company can offer this if their customers are all likely to complain. I suppose maybe if the upstands are 50mm, that would cover anything? www.worktop-express.co.uk/information_guides/butt-joints-a-worktop-express-nutshell-guide/They probably don’t give a monkeys & will close down & reopen with a similar name |
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ian
chief spread
Posts: 294
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Post by ian on Oct 31, 2019 17:58:34 GMT
You will need more than a large square. 1 degree equals a 60:1 deviation. So, 1.5m = 60 inches and over your worktop length equals 1 inch out of place. Take into account that your square should be 90 but slop on its joins give some variation, as does manfacturing tolerances and wall deviation. You dont measure the angle when cuttingva worktop. You cut the top oversize and lay them in place on top of each other and mark it with a pencil line and make your cut to suit. Obviously this wont happen if you have the supplier cut it. You can do this youself and take it to a woodyard/shop that will do the actual cut for you. That's a brilliant piece of advice that I hadn't thought through. I've still got a fair bit of time before ordering so will give it more thought. I don't understand how this company can offer this if their customers are all likely to complain. I suppose maybe if the upstands are 50mm, that would cover anything? www.worktop-express.co.uk/information_guides/butt-joints-a-worktop-express-nutshell-guide/They will cut it at a perfect 90 and to your measurements so if it doesnt fit it is your fault and problem. They have given you exactly what you ordered so there is no recourse. They will just have to bodge them in. Upstands will cover 10-15mm. You could split the gap between both ends or have to scribe it in. If its really bad it will need plastering out. All less than perfect soloutions, more work/hassle and for worse results. |
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Post by endfeed on Nov 1, 2019 8:40:11 GMT
Lovely job that ,Tom. It's surprising how a kitchen can look with new worktops 👍👍 especially granite 🤫🤫🤫 |
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Post by fatflint on Nov 1, 2019 19:57:39 GMT
its not that bad doing it your self Dafty but youll need a 1/2 router and a worktop jig if you want to do proper mitres and routers a better finish for the ends as well, then if your walls are not 90 you offset that in the mitre when you lay em out like Ian says... there some Cockney chippy vids on you tube under the tommy walsh vids tommys trade secrets hes called dave have a look hes good .. and you can get a cheap decent router for about 100 quid from shit fix Ive got the Erbuaer one its good for the money,,its gonna cost you that for a chippy to do a couple of cuts, just practice on the old one first  |
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Post by DIYDafty on Nov 2, 2019 0:01:33 GMT
its not that bad doing it your self Dafty but youll need a 1/2 router and a worktop jig if you want to do proper mitres and routers a better finish for the ends as well, then if your walls are not 90 you offset that in the mitre when you lay em out like Ian says... there some Cockney chippy vids on you tube under the tommy walsh vids tommys trade secrets hes called dave have a look hes good .. and you can get a cheap decent router for about 100 quid from shit fix Ive got the Erbuaer one its good for the money,,its gonna cost you that for a chippy to do a couple of cuts, just practice on the old one first Cheers fatflint - much appreciated ! I agree with you about Dave. I've watched some of his videos like this one and he's good. From what I've read I won't need a mason's mitre like he shows here (because solid wood worktop would be square and advice seems to be to do a butt joint) but seems like a router will be essential and maybe a jig too for the dogbones cutouts and general tidying up. For the straight cuts do you reckon my tracksaw I've already got would be good enough or should I use a router for that also? As an aside, if I could guarantee getting someone like Dave to fit my worktops I'd seriously consider it but there are too many Bearwood Browns around which is one reason I like DIY. The idea of paying a BearwoodBrown a few hundred quid to fuck up an installation doesn't bare thinking about. |
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Post by rocketmanbkk on Nov 2, 2019 8:01:58 GMT
its not that bad doing it your self Dafty but youll need a 1/2 router and a worktop jig if you want to do proper mitres and routers a better finish for the ends as well, then if your walls are not 90 you offset that in the mitre when you lay em out like Ian says... there some Cockney chippy vids on you tube under the tommy walsh vids tommys trade secrets hes called dave have a look hes good .. and you can get a cheap decent router for about 100 quid from shit fix Ive got the Erbuaer one its good for the money,,its gonna cost you that for a chippy to do a couple of cuts, just practice on the old one first Cheers fatflint - much appreciated ! I agree with you about Dave. I've watched some of his videos like this one and he's good. From what I've read I won't need a mason's mitre like he shows here (because solid wood worktop would be square and advice seems to be to do a butt joint) but seems like a router will be essential and maybe a jig too for the dogbones cutouts and general tidying up. For the straight cuts do you reckon my tracksaw I've already got would be good enough or should I use a router for that also? As an aside, if I could guarantee getting someone like Dave to fit my worktops I'd seriously consider it but there are too many Bearwood Browns around which is one reason I like DIY. The idea of paying a BearwoodBrown a few hundred quid to fuck up an installation doesn't bare thinking about. I watched all if that video, really good, id have a few questions but he explained it well & it’d just be a lot of practice like anything. |
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Post by DIYDafty on Nov 4, 2019 13:21:17 GMT
Well, that's one 4M and one 3M hardwood worktop ordered. Listening to folk I didn't pay for any extra cuts. So now I've got to get 4M of hardwood worktop upstairs (there's an external spiral staircase at the back) then cut and maybe scribed plus all cut outs etc.  I normally measure twice and get it wrong so this time I'll measure 7 times..... A few videos out there about how and where to cut etc but still scary. Its gonna be fun. Regarding the original question about overhang, I'm wondering whether its acceptable or not to bring the cabinets off the wall by say 20mm ? Maybe scribing (or even straight cutting) along the length at the back where it would be hidden by the upstand would be preferable? |
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Post by fatflint on Nov 4, 2019 17:00:59 GMT
yep depends on the profile of the front edge if theres any curve on it even a slight bull nose youl need o do a masons, if its a nice tights square you might be ok. id have a practice cut with the tracksaw on a bit thats gonna be cut off waste any way, maybe do a scribe cut couple of mm to score it first , or try cutting from the back, see which gives nicer cut, depends on your saw and blade, Have you checked out Gid Joiner hes top kiddy reminds me off a sort of Tom Plum of wood butchering ha ha, (maybe a year or two younger) but no bullshit and speaks through experience, and he speaks proper hes a good leeds lad.. hes got some good vids
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Post by DIYDafty on Nov 4, 2019 17:07:40 GMT
yep depends on the profile of the front edge if theres any curve on it even a slight bull nose youl need o do a masons, if its a nice tights square you might be ok. id have a practice cut with the tracksaw on a bit thats gonna be cut off waste any way, maybe do a scribe cut couple of mm to score it first , or try cutting from the back, see which gives nicer cut, depends on your saw and blade, Have you checked out Gid Joiner hes top kiddy reminds me off a sort of Tom Plum of wood butchering ha ha, (maybe a year or two younger) but no bullshit and speaks through experience, and he speaks proper hes a good leeds lad.. hes got some good vids Cheers flint, much appreciated - it should be fully square. I'll search out Gid Joiner. In the meantime, regarding the large overhang, do you reckon its better to cut along the worktop or take the base cabinets off the back wall by 20mm or so ? |
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Post by fatflint on Nov 4, 2019 17:20:52 GMT
I would say see what they look like once youve laid em on top of the others, if youve got room and they dont look like there sticking out to far why make more work, and as Ian mentioned you can then see if you need to scribe if your walls out a good bit are you covering the back wall with a splash back , Tiles? thats gonna hide a bit of a gap especially if youre using nice thick tiles.
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